Red or Green–New Mexico’s Food Scene Was on Fire in 2023

The Range trio of guacamole, salsa and con queso with blue corn chips

2023: The Year In Review

T’was the year that was, a banner year for Gil’s Thrilling (And Filling) Blog with more milestones having been achieved. Most significantly to your friendly neighborhood restaurant review blogger was the continued dialogue–your sharing of comments noting contentment, humor, news or displeasure with me or some other food topic. There are now 13,869 comments on 1,370 reviews, an increase of 619 comments and 59 new reviews over 2022. My edacious publicist Bob of the Village of Los Ranchos (BOTVOLR) retains the lifetime commenter achievement award with well over 1200 comments over the life of the blog.  In 2023, however, he was supplanted by the always clever and witty Lynn Garner as the year’s most prolific commenter.  

2023 saw the launch of several new restaurants, several of which appear to have long-term appeal.  The year also saw the closure of several stalwarts.  The closure which seemed to draw the most ire (particularly for Mayor Keller) was Griff’s, a presence on Central Avenue for more than 60 years.  In a press release, the Griff’s corporation noted “there have been too many incidents at the location making it “unsafe and undesirable” to continue operating there. Griff’s has other locations in Texas and Louisiana. The company said it hopes to return to Albuquerque someday.  

MOST POPULAR REVIEWS: 2023 MOST POPULAR REVIEWS: ALL-TIME
Perea’s Tijuana Bar (Corrales) Mary & TIto’s (Albuquerque)
Duke City BBQ (Albuquerque) Buckhorn Tavern (San Antonio)
Big Mike’s Burgers & More (Belen) The Owl Cafe & Bar (San Antonio)
Dulce River Bakery (Rio Rancho) Laguna Burger (Albuquerque)
Dog House Drive-In (Albuquerque) The Burrito Lady (Albuquerque)
The Owl Cafe (Albuquerque) K&I DIner (Albuquerque)
The Burrito Lady (Albuquerque) Budai Gourmet Chinese (Albuquerque)
Monte Carlo Steakhouse (Albuquerque) Cecilia’s Cafe (Albuquerque)
El Molcajeton (Albuquerque) Perea’s Tijuana Bar & Restaurant (Corrales)
K-Style Kitchen (Albuquerque) Monte Carlo Steakhouse (Albuquerque)
Ramona’s Kitchen (Albuquerque) Down N’ Dirty Seafood Boil (Albuquerque)

Sadly several noteable restaurant personalities passed away in 2023.  How we wish we had spent more time with Johnny Martinez of Santa Rosa’s Comet II restaurant.  Johnny was immortalized in Tony Anaya’s Bless Me Ultima.  We also lost larger-than-life restaurateur Larry Gonzales, the longtime (1983-2021) chef and general manager of Papa Felipe’s. Lorraine Chavez, a mainstay at Santa Fe’s Five & Dime General Store for 25 years, passed away at the far too young age 58. Dagmar Mondragon, one of the kindest, most loving and optimistic souls to ever grace our Earthly plane passed away on  25 February 2023 but her eponymous German bakery and restaurant Dagmar’s Delectables lives on in Rio Rancho.  To them and others who passed on, we bid a hail and farewell.  Thank you for so many wonderful meals.

December, 2023

Tacos from Ramona’s Cafe (Photo Courtesy of Lynn Garner)

BEST ALBUQUERQUE RESTAURANTS FOR ELEVEN CUISINES: Every month some online site or another seems to publish a list of the best restaurants in the Land of Enchantment.  It’s usually obvious the staff at many of those sites has never set foot in New Mexico.  That explains why many of the “best of” compilations list the “usual suspects,” some of which are past their prime.  Stacker, which purports to “provide publishers with engaging, data-driven stories” used Yelp data to compile a list of the best restaurants for 11 cuisines in Albuquerque.  It’s a novel and interesting approach.  Yelp data shows that the best restaurant for American cuisine is The Kosmos.  For Chinese, it’s the Pop-Up Dumpling House.  Click on the “best restaurants” link above for more…  

BEST HOT DOG SPOTS IN NEW MEXICO: According to the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council, “Americans consume 20 billion hot dogs a year – more than twice the retail sales figures. That works out to about 70 hot dogs per person each year. Hot dogs are served in 95 percent of homes in the United States.”  An online site called the East Coast Traveler somehow determined the five best hot dog shacks in New Mexico.  Only one (Urban Hot Dog Company) Albuquerque-based purveyor of hot dogs made the list.  Conspicuous by its absence is the Duke City’s legendary Dog House.  The remaining four hot doggeries on the list come from 505 Burgers and Wings in Gallup, Foxy Drive-In in Clovis, Old Apple Barn at Mountain Park and Andele’s Dog House in Las Cruces.  

Sourdough Toast From Slate Street Cafe in Albuquerque

BEST HOLDAY DESSERT SPOT IN NEW MEXICO:  Yelp reently published a guide titled “Crumbs Across America” that surprisingly wasn’t about each state’s elected officials.  Instead, the guide provided a state-by-state compilation of the best holiday desserts across the fruited plain.  Yelp’s choice for New Mexico is popular year round, definitely not strictly a holiday tread.  We’re talking about biscochitos from the Golden Crown Panaderia in Albuquerque.  The legendary Golden Crown also corners the market with another staple–turkey shaped bread for Thanksgiving.  

WHERE THE LOCALS EAT IN SANTA FE:  I’m always dubious of compilations purporting to speak for “locals.”  Most of them are “click-bait.”  Redfin blog, a real estate agency, published a list of 11 must-try restaurants in Santa Fe to try: Where Locals Eat.”  The list was a mix of “usual suspects” with a few “new and hot” restaurants sprinkled in for good measure.  By “usual suspects” I mean restaurants that are consistently on every list.  That, dear readers, doesn’t mean they’re notworthy of a visit or ten.  It’s a good list.

 

Homemade Mandu From K-Style Kitchen

November, 2023

GIL’S THRILLING (AND FILLING) BLOG NOW ON SOCIAL MEDIA: I always thought being able to read minds would be awesome…then came social media.  For years I’ve resisted putting Gil’s Thrilling… online.  Largely it was because of the time sink.  The blog already consumes a significant amount of time and effort.  Ive recently determined that tinkering with Facebook and Instagram won’t take a lot more time than I’m already investing.  So, if you want to read what’s on my mind in more succinct verbiage, you can visit Gil’s Thrilling on Facebook and on Instagram.   You can also just click on the Facebook and Instagram icons on the white space in which the date displays at the very top of every page on the blog.  

THE BIG BOOK OF HATCH CHILE:  Murphy has nothing on the “Law of Chile Peeling” which posits that “As soon as your hands are covered in chile juice, your nose will begin to itch, you will want to rub your eyes and you will need to pee.”  It’s not just artists who are willing to suffer for their art.  Cooks and chefs across the Land of Enchantment who peel and bag bushels of chile do a little suffering, too.  Much like an artistic masterpiece, our reward is an incomparably delicious repast of which no other state can boast.  Whether you’re a well-seasoned chef or a nascent newcomer to the magic of New Mexico’s sacrosanct chile, The Big Book of Hatch Chile is for you.  Author Kelley Cleary Coffeen offers more than 180 detailed but easy-to-use recipes for everything from chile-laced margaritas to several variations on the classic green chile cheeseburger.  It’s a perfect stuffing (and belly) stuffer.

Italian Sub Fro Metro Subs in Albuquerque

SANTA FE’S ESSENTIAL RESTAURANTS:  Necessary, indispensable, vital, crucial.  These are all synonyms for “Essential.”  Eater doesn’t compile a list of a city’s “best” restaurants.  Instead, Eater compiles a list of a city’s “essential” restaurants.  Eater defines essential restaurants as  “indispensable to their neighborhoods, and eventually to their towns and whole regions,” to “ultimately become vital to how we understand ourselves, and others, at the table.”  Eater recently published its list of Santa Fe’s 21 Essential Restaurants.  It’s a very well thought-out list, not a copycat compilation of the same old suspects.  The list includes new and surprising eateries as well as long-time standards.

A POCKET FULL OF PUMPKIN FLAVOR: In October of every year, if you’re driving in the Journal Center area, you’ll espy signage at an oil change station that reads “Pumpkin Spice Oil Change.”  In autumn it seems many of us go mad for pumpkin.  So does the New York Times which published an article on all things pumpkin flavored.  Featured in the article was Albuquerque’s beloved Golden Crown Panaderia.  Read on:  “For more than 50 years, bakers have made pumpkin empanadas every day at the Golden Crown Panadería in Albuquerque, N.M. The bakery’s founder, Pratt Morales, uses a recipe he learned in the 1970s from a New Mexican family whose members are no longer alive. They had been making the pumpkin empanadas — with a flaky pie-crust breading similar to a pastelito — for hundreds of years, he said, and taught Mr. Morales how to make the dessert that’s still served the same way today.  During the bakery’s busy season from October to January, Golden Crown will make nearly 5,000 pumpkin empanadas. Mr. Morales’s son, Chris Morales, said they taste like something you’d have “sitting at home with Grandma and making it together.”

Chocolate Entremet From Mesa Provisions

NEW MEXICO’S “BEST” BURRITO: Naming just one burrito as New Mexico’s very best is akin to pointing at the night sky and declaring any one star the most beautiful in the sky.  It’s just not possible.  That didn’t stop lovefood.com from compiling its list of the best burrito in each state.  Its choice for the Land of Enchantment is the California Burrito from Taqueria Mexico in Albuquerque.  The reason: “The California burrito at local favorite Taqueria Mexico is big enough to see you through several meals, according to some satisfied customers. It comes stuffed with carne asada, beans, rice, onions, and cilantro, all smothered with your choice of red or green sauce and topped with heaps of melted Cheddar and guacamole. Be prepared to take home leftovers.”  How many of you feel a bit slighted that a “California” burrito would be New Mexico’s best?

BURRITO LADY INTERVIEW:  Speaking of burritos.  The Albuquerque Journal recently published an interview with Consuelo Flores the Duke City’s beloved long-time purveyor of superb burritos.  More commonly known as “The Burrito Lady,” a name she shares with her restaurant on Eubank, Consuelo has been feeding Albuquerque for a quarter century.  This is how she described her restaurant’s concept: “100% homemade. The concept is a specialized and extra hot chile and fresh ingredients. I have found out that customers absolutely love fresh fried potatoes. First I thought it was the chile that was attracting the customers. And then I realized it’s the potatoes and the beans and rice and everything else made from scratch.”  

Wings From Saigon City

NEW MEXICO’S BEST PIZZA: How many of us would go far and wide to enjoy our favorite pizza?  Far & Wide, a digital media company which purports to “report the smaller stories that spark conversations, widen perspectives and build communities of like-minded readers” published a list of the “best pizza in every U.S. state.”  New Mexico’s “best pizza” is centrally located.  It comes from Cafe Rio in Ruidoso.  Far & Wide declares: “Reviewers love: Watching the chefs toss the pizzas — and devouring the aptly named Kitchen Sink pizza, featuring pepperoni, Canadian bacon, salami, mushrooms, bell peppers, red onions, black olives, green olives, fresh jalapenos, green chile, Italian sausage, chopped beef brisket, andouille sausage, pineapple and anchovies.”

THIRTEEN BEST RESTAURANTS IN SANTA FE:  Conde Naste Traveler readers have long recognized Santa Fe as one of the world’s premier travel and dining destinations.  It acknowledges that “New Mexico’s capital is also home to a vibrant culinary scene, and not just because of its signature red and green chiles that smother everything from enchiladas, burritos, and burgers to more inventive, modern fare.”  Because of its history with the City Different, any “best of” list Conde Naste Traveler compiles has instant credibility.  That’s evident in its 12 Best Restaurants in Santa Fe compilation.  The list includes long-time standards as well as rather recent entries into the Santa Fe dining scene.

Dutch Apple Pie A La Mode from Dr. Field Goods in Santa Fe

SIXTEEN INCREDIBLE RESTAURANTS IN ALBUQUERQUE: Travel Lens, a global digital publication, featuring high-quality travel articles about destinations worldwide compiled its own list–this one honoring 16 incredible restaurants in Albuquerque.  This list also has credibility in that it recognizes restaurants off-the-eaten path such as the Kosmos Restaurant, Seared Bistro, Padilla’s Mexican Kitchen, Le Troquet and Albuquerque City Limits.  That list almost offsets Travel Lens’ naming of Pappadeaux and Seasons 52, two chain restaurants, as among Albuquerque’s incredible restaurants.  Yep, my bias toward mom-and-pop gems is showing again.

IT’S A MAD, MAD, MAD, MAD JACK BARBECUE WORLD: Taste of Home invited its readers to “Pack some Wet-Naps and hit the road for a state-by-state tour of the best barbecue restaurants in America.”   Those of us in the Land of Enchantment’s northern half will have to trek all the way to Cloudcroft for the state’s best barbecue.  Mad Jack’s Mountaintop Barbecue is Central Texas caliber barbecue.  Central Texas–Lockhart to be precise–is where Mad Jack cut his teeth.  His barbecue is without peer in New Mexico. Here’s what Taste of Home had to say: “You can’t be a restaurant in New Mexico and avoid green chiles, and this well-loved, homey barbecue place makes an excellent green chile stew. Be on the lookout for Mad Jack’s massive and meaty beef ribs, too!

Brotchen and Braunschweiger From Dagmar’s Specialties in Rio Rancho

THANKSGIVING DINNER ON A PIZZA:  Every day is Thanksgiving in which pizza paramours enjoy a slice or ten of pizza.  It need not be a declared holiday for pizza to grace our table because every time we have pizza it’s a special occasion.  Richie B’s, a Duke City pizzeria renowned for its “monster slice” is giving pizza lovers something else for which to be thankful.  During the holday season, Richie B’s is offering a “Thanksgiving slice,” topping their enormous slice with mashed potatoes, stuffing, ham, cranberries, cheese, gravy, and even chile.  Kudos to KOAT TV’s anchor Shelly Ribando, a New Yorker born-and-bred lifelong pizza addict for her willingness to try this pizza.  Her co-anchor Doug Fernandez, however, should have his “man card” taken away from him.  His reaction to the notion of a Thanksgiving pizza was akin to the kids in the old Life cereal commercial.  

NATIVE AMERICAN RESTAURANTS IN THE U.S.:  It’s stil largely being taught that the first Thanksgiving took place during the autumn of 1621 when at least 90 Wampanoag joined 52 English people at what is now Plymouth, Massachusetts. Turkey was not the centerpiece of the meal, as it is today. Instead, it’s likely that goose or duck was the wildfowl of choice.  Over the years, the contributions of Native Americans to our diet has not been heralded nearly as much as exotic cuisine from faraway lands.  Mashed put together a list of 13 restaurants in the U.S. where can eat Native American cuisine.  New Mexico’s Indian Pueblo Kitchen made the list: “Menu items take inspiration from native traditions, and many ingredients and spices in the dishes come from local sources. For example, you’ll see blue corn on the menu, along with red and green chiles, fry bread, elk, bison, and piñon seeds. You’ll also see plenty of Mexican dishes and fusion items. Customers writing on Google talk most about the restaurant’s fry bread, blue corn onion rings, enchiladas, bison stew, and elk chili.”

Aleppo Shrimp Plate From Yamas Greek in Santa Fe

IN-N-OUT-BURGER IN BURQUE:  Is it just me?  I just don’t get how and why In-N-Out Burger is so darned popular.  Of course, I also don’t get the Taylor Swift phenomenon and to me every song by Beyonce sounds exactly the same.  Could it be I’m getting old?  Local media talking heads have been practically drooling about the announcement that In-N-Out Burger will be launching its first restaurant in New Mexico in 2027.  Count me among those who would like to see Griff’s return to Albuquerque–albeit in a safer part of town (if one can be found).

FAVORITE PIZZA TOPPINGS BY STATE:  This one has been circulating for a couple of years now, but it remains a real head-scratcher.  My friend and fellow Al Bundy devotee Pedro Baila Con Bacas from Denver had a much more accurate guess of crushed tortilla chips.  Perhaps only Bugs Bunny (who should have made a left turn at Albuquerque) would top his pizza with carrots?  

Why Have Turkey for Thanksgiving When You Can Have Pizza Topped With Carrots, New Mexico’s Favorite Topping

October, 2023

Longtime Comet II (Santa Rosa) Owner Johnny Martinez, Jr. Passes Away

ROUTE 66 LEGEND PASSES AWAY:  In 1985, U.S. Highway 66 was officially decommissioned when Interstate 40 replaced the final section of the original road in Williams Arizona.  Though vestiges of the outdated, poorly maintained 2,448 mile road succumbed to the interstate system, the fabled “Mother Road” continues to live in the heart and memories of those who got their kicks on Route 66.  Almost as iconic as the mythical motorway was Johnny Martines, Jr., longtime owner of Santa Rosa’s landmark Comet II.  Johnny, whom my Kim and I had the privilege of meeting in 2019 was 88 when he passed away.  For many of us, he’ll remain eternally youthful in his other persona, that of the “Vitamin Kid” in Rudolfo Anaya’s Bless Me Ultima. 

SANTA FE’S SAZON AMONG AMERICA’S BEST:  “White tablecloths, famous chefs, unforgettable bites.”  Those are just some of the things TripAdvisor wants you to think when contemplating the best restaurants for fine dining.  To compile its list of those paragons of fine dining, TripAdvisor also reviews a “high volume of above-and-beyond reviews…over a 12 month period.”  Each winner also has to pass “rigorous trust and safety standards.”  Fewer than one-percent of TripAdvisor’s eight-million listings earn “Best of the Best” signifying the highest standards of excellence in travel.  Among the ten beatified restaurants for 2023 is Santa Fe’s Sazon, helmed by 2022 James Beard “best chef – Southwest” winner Fernando Olea.  Sazon ranked sixth among the very best of the best.  Here’s what TripAdvisor had to say: “Sazon, located in the heart of Santa Fe, offers a unique dining experience that highlights the best of Mexican and Latin American cuisine. The interior is stunning, featuring custom-made chandeliers and beautiful oil-on-canvas paintings from various regions of Mexico.

Beef, Bean and Christmas Burrito from El Patio (Photo Courtesy of John F. Martin)

FRENCH FRIES FOR ALL DADS TRAVELING ACROSS THE COUNTRY:  The persona daddest.com created to represent the “ultimate dad” is more Mike Brady (Brady Bunch) than he is Frank Costanza (Seinfeld).  With an ultimate dad persona in mind, daddest.com aims to create content that reaches the “values, interests, likes and dislikes” that appeal to that dad.  Dads apparently all love French fries though not the burnt or soggy kind.  Daddest compiled a list of the best fries dads will want to try should they buy an RV and plan to travel across the fruited plain.  As a dad to a nine-year-old dachshund, I wholly agree with daddest’s choice for New Mexico’s best fries.  Those perfect papas can only be found at Big D’s Downtime Dive in Roswell.  Here’s some advise from daddest for dads everywhere: “Big D’s Downtown Dive in Roswell is a great neighborhood hotspot that serves insanely delicious Monster Fries. Wondering what goes into it? Well, it comes with cheese, pecan smoked bacon, green chili, and a classic sauce. You can also try their Thanksgiving Fries made from sweet potatoes. These fries are then topped with some cinnamon, bacon, and maple. They’re beyond tasty and you’ll be ordering another serving soon enough.”  

DOG DAYS IN NEW MEXICO:  New Mexico boasts of 1,542 hiking trails and numerous trails with historical significance.  You can certainly get a great workout walking those trails.  My friend and most prolific contributor of sage commentary to this blog Bob of the Village of Los Ranchos (BOTVOLR) has his own trail.  It’s the Dog House Trail.  Over the past forty years or so Bob has consumed about 586.75 foot-long chile cheese dogs with onions (as of 2020).  That’s 178.9176 meters or about 1.1 miles.  There’s a reason Bob loves those Dog House dogs so much.  In its recent ranking of the best hot dogs in every state, Food & Wine agreed with Bob.  Here’s what they had to say: “Memorable appearances on Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul have now made it famous, but Albuquerque locals have long known that when the craving strikes for hot dogs, it pretty much has to be the split and grilled foot longs—topped with the unique red chile sauce, cheese and onions, too, if you like—at the divey Dog House, a neon-adorned drive-in along the Route 66 strip. If your heart is set on a green chile dog, then have one—normally, that goes on the cheeseburgers, but they’ll sell you a cup on the side, no questions asked.”

Alkeme in Santa Fe Offers A Unique Interpretation of Asian Favorites

NEW MEXICO’S BEST PIZZA NAMED:  Does it surprise anyone that the Land of Enchantment didn’t make Food & Wine’s “Top Ten States for Pizza.”  All the usual suspects–New Jersey, New York, Illinois, Connecticut, California, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Ohio and Missouri–made the list.  Deservedly so!  We could argue that no other state plops green chile on their chile, but apparely green chile alone does not make a great pizza…or at least one that gets a national ranking.  Food & Wine did agree with many New Mexicans on the best pizza in the state.  Here’s what Food & Wine had to say: “At Dion’s, an Albuquerque-born regional chain beloved within its home state, a good many of their pizzas don’t get out the door without a side-of-the-house ranch infused with green chilies. Try it once, and while you might not ever feel comfortable in front of your pizza-elitist pals, odds are just fine you’ll be trying it again. It’s delicious. (They sell it in bottles, so you can indulge at home, away from prying eyes.) Albuquerque’s Golden Crown Panaderiais famous for green chile bread and biscochitos, but they also make a great pizza — keep it local with the choice of either blue corn or green chile crust.”

NMRA RECOGNIZED: The New Mexico Restaurant Association, a non-profit that supports restaurants in New Mexico by promoting and protecting their values and interests was recently awarded  a Community Impact Award from the New Mexico Society of Association Executives ” for the NMRA’s Serving New Mexico Fund.  The fund assists employees in the restaurant industry who are facing hardship. The Association has been helping New Mexicans through the fund during difficult circumstances, such as the COVID-19 pandemic and the 2022 Northern New Mexico wildfires. The association has raised over $400,000 for the fund and has given away over 600 grants, ranging from $250 to $500. The fund is currently still taking both donations and applications for assistance. To donate to the fund, click here.

September, 2023

Guido Deli Sub From Mario’s Pizza & Pasta

NEW MEXICO RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION (NMRA) HONORS THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT’S BEST:  For the first time in three years, the NMRA was able to hold an in-person celebration to fete recipients of the association’s annual awards.  The summation of the winners below was taken from the NMRA website:

The highest honor a restaurateur can achieve in New Mexico is Restaurateur of the Year. New Mexico is home to such a great variety of restaurants that it is difficult to choose a winner each year.  Mark Herman of Dion’s and Tula’s were recognized as the 2023 Restaurateur of the Year.

The Chef of the Year award is given to recognize chefs who provide excellent cuisine as well as excellent service. Cristian Pontiggia of Sassella was honored as Chef of the Year for 2023.

The Manager of the Year recognizes outstanding managers who are the team leaders in a restaurant establishment. This year’s recipient is Jarrod Taylor of Jinja Bar & Bistro.

Restaurants are strong supporters of the communities in which they reside. Nine out of ten restaurants contribute to a community service project or fundraiser on a regular basis. The Community Service Award honors a restaurant that is a driving force for community service in their area and has had a significant impact on the community. This year’s recipient is M’Tucci’s Restaurants.

The “Face of Diversity” Award is a new award the New Mexico Restaurant Association presented for the first time at this year’s event. This award was designed to recognize an individual from a diverse background who has realized the American Dream through hard work and determination. The Face of Diversity for 2023 went to Mike White of High Point Grill.

EDIBLE LAYS THE SMACK DOWN IN SANTA FE:  In celebration of the tenth anniversary of the Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown, Edible New Mexico invited seven past Smackdown champions to compete for burger superiority.  With the goal of determining the best green chile cheeseburger in New Mexico, the Smackdown invited chefs to “toss their spatulas in the ring and throw down the burger sure to beat them all.”  2022’s “triple crown winner” Albuquerque’s Tikka Spice earned the Judges’ Award while Santa Fe’s Rio Chama Steakhouse was designated Peoples’ Choice winner.

Bruce “Sr Plata” Silver Shows Off Hanmi’s Garlic Chicken

OSO GRILL IS BEARISH ON THE STATE FAIR: For some of us, the highlight of the New Mexico State Fair is the culinary events.  Perhaps none is more prestigious and celebrated than the Green Chile Cheeseburger.   A panel of celebrity judges and the general public (150 people) are asked to select their favorite from among seven competitors.  No matter what panel of judges or members of the public participate in the judging, it appears a clear favorite has emerged.  Capitan’s Oso Gril has earned the People’s Choice for five consecutive years.  They also took home the Judges’ Choice award each of the last three years of the competition.

M’TUCCI’S RECOGNIZED ON NPR:  One of my former managers at Intel defined a four-day workweek as “working for days and days until you get the job done.” That’s not the way M’Tucci’s defines a four-day workweek. In 2022, M’Tucci’s discovered many of its employees were working 40 to 60 hours per week.  Experiencing a 40-percent employee turnover, the dynastic Italian restaurant made a significant change by implementing a four-day workweek.  This strategic decision has resulted in improved morale and higher retention rates.  National Public Radio’s Juliet Schor interviewed Howie Kaibel,  M’Tucci’s Minister of Culture and Brand Manager, about the impact the change has had on the restaurant.  As always, Howie was eloquent and erudite.  You might be surprised at the economic impact the change has had.  It’s an excellent read. 

Ham and Swiss Sandwich on White Bread from Golden Crown Panaderia

ITALITY IN CONTENTION: Tina Archuleta, owner of Itality Plant Based Foods, the first-ever indigenous and women-owned vegan restaurant in the country is a finalist to win $25,000 from Pow Wow Pitch, a non-profit organization which supports and empowers indigenous entrepreneurs.  Should she win, she plans on buying a delivery vehicle in hopes of ultimately reaching all of New Mexico’s 22 tribes. As the founder of Itality, Ms. Archuleta began her business to address the health disparity she saw in her Pueblo community of Jemez.  She believes indigenous peoples need to return to the uses of traditional remedies and a healthful diet to maintain health and wellbeing.

NEW MEXICO’S BEST SANDWICH:  The great comedian Paul Lynde who held the center spot on the Hollywood Squares was known for his quick wit.  He could literally make anything funny and if his signature zingers didn’t get you, his facial expressions would.  His quote on sandwiches–“Sandwiches are wonderful.  You don’t need a spoon or a plate.”–may not seem funny when you read it, but long-time fans probably got a chuckle at picturing him uttering that quote.  Finance 1st.com compiled the list of the best sandwiches under spacious skies.  “When it comes to the favorite sandwich of New Mexico, was there ever any doubt that it would contain chiles? This is one place in the United States where it’s never tough to find spicy food, and that evidently extends to its sandwiches. Here, the dish of choice is apparently a combination of turkey and green chile between bread.”  Finance 1st indicates you can get the best turkey and green chile sandwich in New Mexico at Relish in Albuquerque.”

Cinnamon Roll and Chocolate Glazed Donut from Charlie’s Spic & Span in Las Vegas

LOYAL TO LOYOLA’S:  You might think a website titled “Silly America” would publish content about the Federal and State governments, but it’s actually a site dedicated to roadside attractions across the fruited plain.  Silly America recently celebrated a Route 66 institution and perennial cameo presence on Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul.  There’s nothing silly about Loyola’s Family Restaurant on Route 66 in the heart of Albuquerque.  Silly America advises on and all: “Looking for some of the best breakfasts and Mexican food in Albuquerque that attracts locals, road trippers, and film crews alike? Take a break from the road and stop for a meal at Loyola’s Family Restaurant in Albuquerque, New Mexico.”  

AMERICA’S BEST DOUGHNUTS:  In 1809, story-writer Washington Irving (among whose classics include Rip VanWinkle) referred to the term “dough nut” in The History of New York.  Ever since then, the “doughnut versus donut” controversy persists.  Though both spellings are technically correct and acceptable across the donut…or doughnut eating world, what really matters to most of us is how good this popular pastry tastes.  Food & Wine  has revealed its list of the top donut in each state.  Its selectee from the Land of Enchantment is Santa Fe’s Whoo’s Donuts.  In particular, the biscochito cake donut earned accolades: “Come holiday times at Whoo’s Donuts in Santa Fe, the biscochito is a big deal, and it arrives in the form of a fine, sugar-dusted cake doughnut. Attention to local tradition is par for the course at the state’s most interesting shop, where blue corn, chiles, and other local staples make regular appearances.”

Buffet Plate from Naan & Dosa

GREATEST FAST FOOD IN NEW MEXICO:  LoveFood, a website for “the food obsessed” believes “The US is almost embarassingly rich when it comes to incredible fast food.”  Best of all LoveFood claims “often, the best fast food classics are served up at no-frills food trucks, hole-in-the-wall joints, and mom-and-pop eateries.”   LoveFood compiled a list of some of those fast food classics, a list of each state’s greatest fast food restaurants. Making the list from the Land of Enchantment was Albuquerque’s Taqueria El Paisa.  Here’s what LoveFood had to say: “If you’re in the mood to feast, Taqueria El Paisa has you covered with its hearty quesadillas, loaded burritos, and flavor-filled tacos. This rustic cash-only restaurant is usually packed, but the line moves quickly and service is swift. You can order to go from the walk-up window out front, or eat your meal on the covered patio. It’s a particularly popular stop for lunch (be sure to order the juicy pork and potato gorditas), and the horchata and aguas frescas drinks are sensational, too.”  (Thank you, Pedro Martin of Colorado)

CHEESECAKE WITH YOUR FAST FOOD: “Who can resist a heavenly slice of cheesecake, with a crumbly, buttery base and creamy, fruity, or chocolatey topping?”  This question was posed by LoveFood, the aforementioned website for the food obsessed.  Compiling a list of the very best cheesecake in every state, LoveFood recommended New Mexicans get a piece of the action at  A Heavenly Taste Cakery, “where cheesecakes are loaded with huge volumes of sweet toppings. There’s a range of flavors and toppings options that tend to change regularly, but a firm customer favorite is the caramel churro cheesecake. It’s piled high with miniature churros, whipped cream, and caramel sauce.”

Tortilla Burger and Fries from Foodtopia (Courtesy of John Martin)

NEW MEXICO’S BEST TACOS: In celebration of National Taco Day on October 4, Yelp compiled its latest list of Top 100 Taco Spots in America.  Cheesy goodness is this year’s hottest taco trend—especially when combined with the previous biggest trend, birria (tacos with braised beef or other meat, often served with consomé for dipping).”  According to Yelp data, the country’s biggest “taco” town is Austin, Texas with Los Angeles ranking second.  Yelp noted “And while the Southwest is amply represented by cities like Phoenix, Tucson, and Las Vegas, the taco obsession is also going strong in New York City, Denver, and Louisville, Kentucky.”  What is telling to this culinary observer is that New Mexico has only one taqueria–La Reforma Brewery in Albuquerque–among the top 100.  New Mexicans have been enjoying tacos long  before most people in Louisville ever heard of tacos.

August, 2023

Bruno’s Special (Hand-Cut Rib Eye, Papitas, Fried Spinach) From El Bruno

ABSOLUTELY ALBUQUERQUE:  Local rocker Amanda Machon is so effusive about Albuquerque that she makes Mayor Keller seem almost apathetic in comparison.  If the Duke City ever appointed an official ambassador, she would be my choice.  Amanda is the exuberant hostess of Absolutely Albuquerque, which streams on the Very Local channel.  Her Absolutely Albuquerque series focuses on all about discovering everything that makes Albuquerque unique and exciting.  The Duke City’s culinary culture is, of course, integral to making Albuquerque unique and exciting.  In the program’s inaugural episode, Amanda visited Rude Boy Cookies where she learned just a bit about the art of creating fabulous cookies from Albuquerque’s premier fabricant de biscuits Kristin Dowling.  In future episodes she’ll be visiting with such stalwart culinary artists as Marie Yniguez at My Moms and the chile makers at The Dog House.  With a smile as broad, beautiful and bright as an Albuquerque summer morning, Amanda will make you as enthusiastic about Albuquerque as she is.  Absolutely!

OUTRAGEOUS HOTDOG IN ALBUQUERQUE: In 2023 Yelp compiled a list of America’s most outrageous hotdogs.  On that list was a dog called the Tattooed Lady from Clowndog.  Here’s what Yelp had to say about the Tattooed Lady:  “Froot Loops are not something you’d expect on a hot dog. But at this circus-themed spot, they’re one of the many eye-popping surprises found on the Tattooed Lady—maybe the most unique item you’ll ever have. Your choice of frank is topped with chopped bacon, flame-roasted jalapeno salsa, and—believe it or not—Froot Loops, grape jelly, and mustard.”  Not only is this hotdog outrageous, Yelp claims “What amazes people who order this whimsical combination, is that it’s actually delicious.

Poached Pear Salad From Gold Street Pizza

CULINARY TOURISM IN NEW MEXICO:  The concept of culinary tourism–traveling beyond your immediate neighborhood to find great foodis something I’ve long tried to promote on Gil’s Thrilling…  Intrepid travelers don’t have to travel beyond the Land of Enchantment’s sacred borders to visit a culinary  “trail” that’s among the “8 best foodie trails in the U.S.”  So says The Points Guy, an online presence created by travelers for travelers.  The Points Guy says New Mexico’s Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail will help you: “Spice up your cheeseburger game with a massive, 52-stop green chile patty party. The New Mexico Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail is as gluttonous as it is long. With 52 stops, you could technically hit one spot each week over the course of a year, or you can take a more strategic trip — from around two to three regions — to get the job done.”

NEW MEXICO’S BEST CULT FAVORITE RESTAURANT: LoveFood.com, an online media presence covering recipes, reviews, chefs and restaurants compiled a list of the best cult-favorite restaurant in each state–restaurants “that due to awards and accolades or word of mouth – that you simply shouldn’t miss out on visiting.  The Land of Enchantment was well represented by El Paisa with a “cheap eats” menu that belies the deliciousness and quality of great Mexican food.  Here’s what LoveFood had to say: “Decidedly no-frills, this hole-in-the-wall taco joint has earned a devout following thanks to its amazingly cheap, amazingly delicious tacos, burritos, gorditas, and the weekend special of menudo (tripe soup).”

Summer Special at The Range in Bernalillo: Fried Chicken, Red Chile Honey, Mashed Potatoes, Calabasitas

WHO REALLY INVENTED THE FRITO PIE?: Celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain didn’t endear himself to New Mexicans during his 2013 visit to Santa Fe’s Five & Dime.  The controversial chef not only called the diner’s sacrosanct Frito pie “like you’re holding a warm crap in a bag” and a “colostomy pie,” he denounced it was “as deadly as the Manhattan Project.”  After a barrage of insults, he did make one semi-conciliatory comment: “Neither the Frito nor the Frito pie are indigenous to New Mexico.  They’re actually from Texas.  New Mexico has many wonderful things.  Let Texas have this one.”   For years the origin of the Frito pie has been hotly debated.  It does turn out that Bourdain was absolutely correct in attributing its origin to Texas.  Austin station KXAN (where locals wake up with my all-time favorite meteorologist Kristen Currie) explains in a recent article which rehashes the pretty well established history of the Frito pie.

TWELVE BEST RESTAURANTS IN SANTA FE: When I first discovered an article purporting to list the 12 Best Restaurants in Santa Fe For Unforgettable Meals by world traveler and life coach Molly Beauchemin of Grace & Lightness Magazine, I pondered the irony of a site titled “Grace & Lightness” featuring Santa Fe’s restaurants–not all of which are known for “light” foods.   The intriguing feature noted that “This emerging desert food oasis exists at the intersection of Spanish, Native American, and contemporary New Mexican culinary traditions, as well as the growing farm-to-table movement that would seem somewhat paradoxical in the high desert of the American Southwest. That’s why Santa Fe is known as “The City Different”: for its unique ability to showcase different facets of local tradition.”  Among the restaurants listed are:  El Farol, Geronimo, San Marcos Cafe and nine other sterling exemplars of outstanding cuisine.

Durian Shake From Viet Com

There’s absolutely no doubt the “ultimate” vacation in Santa Fe must include visiting some of the City Different’s best restaurants, especially those which showcase New Mexico’s sacrosanct red and green chile.  Writing for the Huffington Post, Caroline Bologna “took full advantage of the food scene, trying as many dishes as I could with green chile sauce, red chile sauce and even the compromise “Christmas style” with both options.”  Caroline noted that “some of the best food I tried in Santa Fe was no doubt from El Chile Toreado. A James Beard Award semi-finalist, this humble food truck had possibly the best breakfast tacos and burritos I’ve ever tried.” 

July, 2023

Tacos From ¡Ay, Mi Mexico! (Courtesy of Lynn Garner)

LEGENDARY ALBUQUERQUE RESTAURATEUR PASSES AWAY:  Larger-than-life restaurateur Larry Gonzales, the longtime (1983-2021) chef and general manager of Papa Felipe’s in Albuquerque passed away on Friday, 28 July 2023.  Larry was renowned almost as much for his sense of humor and customer orientation as he was for the New Mexican cuisine he prepared for nearly four decades.  Among his culinary specialties–delightful dishes you won’t find anywhere else in Albuquerque–are green chile tamale pie and chilaquiles casserole.  Whether innovating or preparing traditional New Mexican food, Larry did it all well.  The 19 April 2023 edition of Albuquerque Business First reported that Papa Felipe’s is up for sale.  For many Albuquerque diners, Papa Felipe’s hasn’t been the same since Larry’s retirement in 2021.  His outgoing nature and personality will always permeate the restaurant he loved and who which hegave so much of his life.

REVERED RIO RANCHO RESTAURANT RETURNING SOON:  Visionaries (my term for resident of the City of Vision) haven’t had much to celebrate.  Not only did beloved restaurateurs Joe and Kassie Guzzardi retire, in February we lost the wonderful Dagmar Gertrude Ingeborg Schulze Marshall Mondragon of Dagmar’s Delectables.  My friend Sarita happily shared a bit of much-needed great news.  Dagmar’s Facebook page reports “The outpouring of love for Dagmar, our family and the restaurant has been nothing short of stunning.  The community that has been built through and around Dagmar and the bakery is vast and loyal and loving and simply amazing!  After several days of stress, tears and prayers, Mama Oma and I are truly THRILLED to report that Michael Almanzar, a long-time friend of Dagmar’s who is affectionately known as “Dagmar’s brother from another mother” is the new owner/operator of Dagmar’s.  We are so happy to be “keeping it in the family.”  More details on the reopening of Rio Rancho’s favorite bakery will be shared on Facebook.

Grilled Pork Banh Mi and from Leona Banh Mi

NEW MEXICO MAGAZINE CELEBRATES 100 YEAR ANNIVERSARY:  In what is destined to be a collector’s edition, New Mexico Magazine published its 100th Anniversary Issue in July.  The Magazine celebrated some of the many reasons to love New Mexico.  Among those reasons is because our cuisine nourishes the soul.  James Beard Best Chef: Southwest finalist Justin Pioche wrote about his passion for passing on his knowledge about Native foldaways to the state’s youth.  He emphasized that if that culinary culture isn’t passed on, it could signal the end of one of the things that makes New Mexico and the Southwest special.  Chef Pioche also listed his favorite Native restaurants.  They include Farmington’s Juniper Coffee & Eatery and the Indian Pueblo Kitchen.

NEW MEXICO’S BEST DESSERT:  The late (and much missed) humorist Erma Bombeck once quipped “Seize the moment. Remember all those women on the ‘Titanic’ who waved off the dessert cart.”  If there’s any consolation, it’s that they didn’t have much time to kick themselves for having passed up dessert.  The Food Network recently compiled a list of “50 Over-The-Top Treats from Across the U.S., essentially one dessert from every state that you should never pass up.   New Mexico’s most over-the-top treat comes from Santa Fe’s Churro Bar.  Fittingly that dessert is a churro cake. According to the Food Network: “These churros were a food-truck favorite, so the owners made them into a cake and opened Churro Bar in Santa Fe.”

Pina Loca From El Molcajeton

I SCREAM FOR ICE CREAM TO BEAT THE HEAT:  Sunday, July 16th was National Ice Cream Day, an unpaid holiday designated by President Ronald Reagan.  Unfortunately with temperatures hovering in the one-hundred degree range, many of us didn’t want to contend with energy-sapping heat.  Otherwise, the place to be would have been I Scream Ice Cream, an Albuquerque treasure recently chosen recently by Yelp as one of the very best ice cream shops in the whole USA.  On its list of the top 100 ice cream shops across the fruited plain, I Scream Ice Cream was ranked number three.  Here’s what Yelp had to say: “Take a walk down memory lane at the “coolest retro ice cream place, which serves up 35 flavors with a huge dollop of nostalgia. Owner Bill Warren sources what he calls “the best of the best” hard-packed ice cream from “all over the country” for visitors to the memorabilia-filled parlor, which opened in 2005. But the real stars of this destination sweet shop are the floor-to-ceiling vintage toys, posters, record albums, board games, funny hats, and so much more.”

KRQE HONORS NEW MEXICO’S BEST PIZZA:  Based on Google reviews, KRQE News 13 compiled a list of some New Mexico best pizza spots – all of which have at least 4.5 stars and 1,000 reviews on Google. Not surprisingly the list was dominated by Duke City area pizzerias and Italian restaurants.  Farina Pizzeria & Wine Bar topped the list.  From among those meeting the Google criteria, the only pizza on the list that wasn’t from the Duke City area came from Edgewood’s Pizza Barn and Ruidoso’s Cafe Rio.  Surprisingly Santa Fe wasn’t represented–perhaps because no City Different pizzeria had 1,000 reviews.  Viewer recommendations that didn’t achieve that 1,000 review benchmark came from Mimbres, Crownpoint, Farmington, Alamogordo and other smaller towns and villages across the Land of Enchantment…and yes, Santa Fe was well represented on that list. 

Green Chile Cheeseburger from Monte Carlo Steakhouse – Courtesy of Lynn Garner

AND ITS BEST TACOS, TOO: KRQE was busy analyzing  Google reviews, compiling a list of some New Mexico taco spots – all of which have at least 4.5 stars and 500 reviews on Google.  Four restaurants achieved a 4.7 star average: Guelaguetza, La Reforma and Barbacoa El Primo in Albuquerque as well as 2023 James Beard Award-nominated El Chile Toreado in Santa Fe.  Numerous other purveyors of tantalizing tacos didn’t achieve the requisite 1,000 reviews but scored very well.  Towns and villages whose tacos earned that distinction include Springer, Belen and Española among other smaller population centers.

RAIDING THE COOKIE JAR:  Rude Boy Cookies, Albuquerque’s preeminent cookie shop made USA Today’s list of the “best cookies in America.”  In a feature titled “10 must-try cookie shops across the United States,” USA Today rated Rude Boy Cookies the seventh best in the fruited plain, declaring: “The cookies at Rude Boy Cookies are so good that they’ve earned a cult following in Albuquerque, New Mexico. All the usual suspects are here, from chocolate chip to red velvet, peanut butter and sugar. Just make sure to also keep the shop’s award-winning biscochitos (New Mexico’s state cookie) on your radar.

Double Chocolate Ice Cream Sandwich with Salted Caramel Ice Cream; Right: Two Scoops of Salted Caramel Ice Cream from Rude Boy Cookies

NEW MEXICO RESTAURANT AMONG AMERICA’S BEST:  Acknowledging that “mom-and-pop shops are the heartbeat of our communities,” Yelp launched its inaugural list of America’s favorite mom and pop shops.  The list–which included everything from “beloved family-run restaurants and quaint Main Street bookstores to reliable neighborhood plumbers and trusted hair stylists“–included familiar Land of Enchantment landmarks.   Among New Mexico institutions on the Yelp list are Tucumcari’s Blue Swallow Motel, a historic treasure.  The only restaurant on the list was Geronimo, considered by many to be Santa Fe’s best restaurant (though mom-and-pop is not a term usually ascribed to it).  

SANTA FE’S BEST RESTAURANTS: The Manual, a digital lifestyle online presence which purports to “show everyone how to live a more engaged life”  whether it be fashion, culture, food, drinks, travel, grooming, or the outdoors recently published a guide to Santa Fe’s best restaurants.  Among the restaurants making the list were Tomasita’s, Geronimo, Paloma, Ahmyo Wine Garden and others.  The astute writer, a Portland resident, noted that “As you might expect, the food is informed by classic Mexican cuisine but is also very much its own thing.  Thank goodness another out-of-towner didn’t describe the Land of Enchantment’s uniquely diverse and wonderful cuisine as “Tex Mex.”

 June, 2023

Plantains with Moros y Cristianos (Congri) From Havana Restaurant

JAMES BEARD “BEST CHEF -SOUTHWEST” FINALIST PROFILED:  Justin Pioche, the only chef from New Mexico selected as finalist for the coveted James Beard Foundation “Best Chef – Southwest” award was recently profiled in a wonderful article by Searchlight New Mexico, an investigative journalism presence.  The article revealed that “Rather than establishing a restaurant, he’s opted to experiment with an alternative business model, staging pop-up gourmet dinners, catering private events and bringing his food truck to regional festivals.”  It’s a model that allows him to interface on a personal level with guests fortunate enough to enjoy his artful creations. 

KRQE HONORS NEW MEXICO GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGERS:  Albuquerque’s CBS affiliate KRQE Channel 13 recently compiled a list of some New Mexico spots that offer green chile cheeseburgers – all of which have at least 4.5 stars and 500 reviews on Google.  The list shows just how ubiquitous our sacrosanct state burger has become.  Scour the list and you’re bound to find several green chile cheeseburgers you didn’t know existed.  In some cases, you might not even recognize the towns and villages in which they’re served.  Isn’t it time for the New Mexico Tourism Department to update its New Mexico Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail.  The trail hasn’t been updated since 2011.

Bruce “Sr Plata” Silver Stands in Front of the 505 Central Food Hall

SO DOES THE ALBUQUERQUE JOURNAL:  Albuquerque Journal reporter Ryan Boetel has an assignment any one of us who isn’t camera shy would envy.  Ryan has been taking his own green chile cheeseburger tour and posting video reviews on the Journal.  To this point he’s visited several of Albuquerque’s very best purveyors of the Land of Enchantment’s favorite burger.  To this point he’s visited the Monte Carlo Steakhouse, Rex’s Hamburgers and the Oak Tree Cafe.  Ryan orders the burger however the restaurant normally serves it up with no additions or subtractions.  He eats the burger outside the place while the restaurant is still fresh and scores them on a 1-10 scale.  

WOULD YOU BELIEVE A GREEN CHILE AND LIME FLAVORED SODA:  The Jones Soda Company which prides itself on listening to consumers regarding flavors, colors and labels, must have been listening to consumers from the Land of Enchantment.  The craft soda company now has a Hatch green chile and lime-flavored soda available for purchase online.  Walmart and Smith’s are expected to offer the special release later this summer.   A twelve pack will cost you $44.99, but that includes free ground shipping.  Jones Soda Company urges consumers to “Get ready for some mild summer heat!  Hatch chile and lime soda is here.  Combining the bold flavors of smoky Hatch chiles with a refreshing zing of lime.  Pairs perfectly with spicy food on a hot evening.”  The soda does, however, come with a warning: “Drinking this soda may cause spontaneous salsa dancing and a sudden craving for tacos.”  

Pecan Pie from the 66 Diner

NEW MEXICO’S BEST CHICKEN SANDWICH:  Black Enterprise, the country’s number one digital media enterprise, took a delicious dive into chicken sandwiches throughout the US.  Its article was prefaced with “Not all chicken sandwiches are made equally, and connoisseurs will tell you that certain restaurants have tastier and better options than others. If you have been searching for the best places to have chicken sandwiches that will blow your mind and tickle your taste buds, you have come to the right place.”  Scouring the list, you won’t find any state expressing a preference for Popeye’s or Chick-fil-A.  Instead, the list names fifty mom-and-pop restaurants who have perfected poultry between buns.  New Mexico’s best is Kamikaze Kitchen.  Here’s what the article has to say: Kamikaze Kitchen in Albuquerque prides itself on delivering unexpected flavor combinations, and the restaurant has been adored by patrons since it opened its doors. They are known for fusing Asian-inspired ingredients with Southern Tex-Mex cooking. Quite a unique blend, if you ask us. The Mother Klucker serves up a belly-busting chicken sandwich that comes on black sesame seed brioche bread. It features fried chicken breast, orange house sauce, Asian slaw, and sriracha mayo. The distinct tastes and evenly distributed heat levels are a big hit.”  

NEW MEXICO’S BEST SNACK:  “Sweet or salty?  Yes, please. There’s no shortage of these marvelous munchies, from dips oozing with cheesy goodness to sandwiches and burgers that deliciously flood our tastebuds. Everyone has their favorite snack—but which delightful bites are considered the best snacks around?.”  That’s how Reader’s Digest began its compilation of “The Best Snack in Every State.”  It’s hard to argue with the choice for New Mexico: our official state cookie, the biscochito.  Here’s what Reader’s Digest had to say: “Stacks of these fragrant shortbread cookies are holiday favorites, but they pair perfectly with a warm beverage any time of year. The lard in the ­recipe gives them a flaky texture, while notes of anise and cinnamon (plus a nip of rum or brandy) constitute their signature flavor.”  

Discada Norteña from Mariscos La Playa

DINING WITH A VIEW:  Henry Ward Beecher observed “It’s easier to go down a hill than up but the view is much better at the top.”  He didn’t specifically have the view from the top of Sandia Peak in mind, but his sage aphorism certainly applies.  Travel Awaits named Ten 3, the stunning fine-dining at the 10,300 level of Sandia Peak “One of 12 Restaurants With Amazing Views.”  Other restaurants on the list include restaurants in Mexico, Thailand, Paris, Alaska and Sedona (Arizona).

May, 2023

New Mexico Magazine’s Classic Eats Issue

GET TO KNOW NEW MEXICO’S MOST ICONIC RESTAURANTS:  Lynn Cline describes the 25 classic New Mexico restaurant institutions featured in the May issue of New Mexico Magazine as “not just eateries–they’re living, breathing, cultural institutions.”  She rhapsodizes further: “from roadside diners to downtown drive-ins, ancestral haciendas to mom-and-pop cafés, New Mexico’s iconic restaurants tell tales. For generations, these hot spots have welcomed us like family, overflowed our plates with hospitality, and stirred our souls with cherished recipes cooked from the heart.  The 25 restaurants showcased by Lynn include venerable landmarks such as Bibo Bar & Grill,  Duran Central Pharmacy, El Farolito and 22 other great institutions on-and-off the well beaten, well eaten path. 

RIO RANCHO RESTAURANT HONORED:  Rotary District 5520, which includes the entire state of New Mexico and part of Texas, selects one small (1-10 employees), medium (11-50 employees) and large business (more than 50 employees) as an outstanding company for ethics and community service. To be nominated for the award, the business must demonstrate excellence in employee relations, quality of product and/or representation and community involvement of both management and employees. James and Megan Garrigan, owners of Lily & Liam Bistro and Upscale Burgers & Shakes, recently earned the Sonny Brown award in the medium business category.  In addition to employing a workforce that includes several individuals with disabilities, the Garrigans work closely with several nonprofit groups.  They were also cited for preparing chef-inspired dishes designed to be mindful of food waste and other low impact to the environment approaches.

Onion Rings from Rex’s Burgers

El QUESO MEJOR:  The New York Times advices “For a Chile Con Queso Like No Other, Head to Southern New Mexico.”  More specifically, the progenitor of “All The News That’s Fit To Print” recommends you visit Chope’s Town Bar & Cafe in La Mesa. Chope’s closely guards its queso queso recipe other than divulging it comprises thin, roasted Hatch green chile salsa topped with melted cheese. It’s an unconventional con queso, the antithesis of the melted glop some restaurants try to pass off as con queso.  It’s more akin to a green chile stew, with or without meat, topped with a melting white cheese…and it is absolutely fabulous.  Instead of chips, the con queso is accompanied by four flour tortillas, each about five-inches in diameter and about an eighth of an inch thick, not the paper-thin abomination inferior restaurants serve.  Use the tortillas to scoop up the con queso and you’ll be amazed at the magnificent marriage of green chile and cheese.  

FRITO PIE QUEEN PASSES AWAY: Lorraine Chavez, a mainstay at Santa Fe’s Five & Dime General Store for 25 years, passed away at age 58 on May 27th.  Fondly regarded as the “Frito Pie Queen,” Lorraine may not have invented the Frito pie, but she certainly perfected it.  While filming “Parts Unknown” for CNN, celebrity glitterati Anthony Bourdain rankled the feathers of proud New Mexicans who have loved the Five & Dime’s Frito pies for generations. Bourdain claimed the dish was made with canned Hormel chili and a “DayGlo orange cheese-like substance.  Lorraine came to the chile’s defense, explaining that she cooks up the chile con carne from scratch every morning.  Lorraine met dozens of people every day, greeting them with her perpetual smile and welcoming them like guests at her home.  She’ll be missed.

April, 2023

Beef Ribs From High Road Market in Penasco

SPARKY’S SHOWCASED ON PBS PROGRAM: La Frontera, the US-Mexico border spanning 1,989 miles, from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, is the most frequently crossed border in the world. The border zones are among the fastest-growing regions in both countries, with over $1 billion in trans-border trade transacted daily. Over the past two seasons, PBS has showcased the diversity of La Frontera–its people, communities and ecosystems. James Beard award-winning host Pati Jinich has introduced viewers to some of the mot unique and bio-diverse regions in the world, traveling from Sonora and Arizona to New Mexico and Chihuahua. During a recent episode, Pati traveled to Hatch to understand how a city in the US could possibly call itself the “chile capital of the world.” While in Hatch, she stopped off at Sparky’s where she enjoyed a green chile sundae. Pati’s guide in Hatch was Andrea Alvarez of La Reina Chile Company who welcomed her and introduced her to some of the farmers in Hatch who are keeping New Mexico’s sacrosanct chile tradition alive

NEW MEXICO’S OTHER CASH CROP: Scant days after Governor Michelle Lujan Grisham signed an official state aroma (green chile being roasted) into law, State and Federal agriculture officials announced the Land of Enchantment’s chile production numbers for 2022. New Mexico produced more than 53,000 tons of its sacrosanct red and green crop during the last growing season with an estimated value of more than $46 million, about $1 million more than in 2021. While production was up, the acreage used to grow chile was actually less than in 2021. The New Mexico Chile Association credits the higher yields to irrigation and cultivation improvements. About sixty percent of 2022’s production came from counties other than Sierra, Doña Ana, and Luna counties. That means there’s a lot of chile being grown outside of Doña Ana County, home to Hatch, the “Chile Capital of the World.”

Chicken Florentine Soup From Cheese & Coffee in Uptown Albuquerque

BRING FIDO: Every once in a while we espy a vehicle sporting a decal declaring “My dog behaves better than your kid.” It’s a sentiment with which we wholeheartedly agree, but then our debonair dachshund The Dude behaves better than most adults, too. It’s been our privilege and joy to be accompanied for many of our restaurant visits (mostly al fresco) by The Dude. Invariably he’s either so well behaved that restaurant staff doesn’t even know he’s there or they’re oohing and aahing at what a great looking little guy he is. It certainly makes us wish more restaurants across the Land of Enchantment made it onto Yelp’s Top 100 Dog Friendly Restaurants across the fruited plain. Some of The Dude’s favorites did make the list: Andele’s Dog House in Mesilla, Tia B’s La Waffleria in Albuquerque and The Tune-Up Cafe in Santa Fe.

SURVIVING THE SUPERMARKET: Considering how much men whine and complain when our spouses ask us to go pick up some groceries, you’d think we were giving birth without anesthesia while simultaneously passing a kidney stone. Grocery shopping (especially with our wives) ranks up there with watching The View as the most torturous activities men can perform. Don’t feel sorry for Albuquerque Chef Mike White who not only survived a visit to the supermarket, he did so on television. Chef White, the New Mexico Restaurant Association Chef of the Year for 2018 and an uber-talented chef and restaurant impresario who helms The Point Grill showcased his talents on the Food Network program Supermarket Stakeout. Chef White beat out four other chefs in the competition, in doing so winning a year’s worth of groceries.

From the Buffet at Namaste in Rio Rancho

INTRODUCING ALBUQUERQUE’S NEW SERIOUS FOODIE COMEDY TEAM: Over the past quarter-century there’s no one with whom I’ve shared more meals and more laughs than my dear friend Bill Resnik, a former stand-up comic and long-time colleague. Bill and I created and delivered countless barely-safe-for-work roasts at Intel, insulting everyone from admins to executive vice presidents. On Saturday (and this is no April Fool’s joke), Bill and I were invited on The Weekend with Terry Travis where the show’s topic was “Foodie Saturday.” Hosted by Jerry Miller, the show’s producer and former owner of the Great American Steakhouse in Albuquerque, the show may have uncovered Albuquerque’s new serious foodie comedy team. I caught a cold and was barely coherent, but the comedic stylings of Bill and Jerry made my absence negligible. They discussed weighty foodie topics, delivering a healthy dose of comedy throughout. Also appearing on Foodie Saturday was the wonderful Antoinette Knight, owner of Mary & Tito’s. You can listen to the entire recording here.

NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS MAKE YELP’S TOP 100 PLACES TO EAT: Yelp released its list of Top 100 Places to Eat in the Southwest (Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah) for 2023. With 32 restaurants on the list, Arizona led the quadrumvirate of states. The Land of Enchantment had ten representatives from six cities on the list: Oasis Mediterranean restaurant was the only restaurant on the list from Gallup, but it ranked ranked 6th overall. Representing Santa Fe were Ras Rody’s Jamaican Vegan which ranked 20th, Santarepa Cafe which ranked 25th, James Beard Best Chef-Southwest Semifinalist El Chile Toreado which ranked 75th and Mac Santa Fe which ranked 92nd. Albuquerque restaurants on the list were Barbacoa El Primo at #87, La Finca Bowls at #88 and Guava Tree Cafe at #98. Cloudcroft’s Mad Jack’s Mountaintop Barbecue made the list at #29. Watson’s BBQ from Tucumcari made the list at #34 as did InfiniteBBQ from Farmington at #79.

Blue Corn Waffles from La Luna Eatery & Events

RESTAURANT IMPOSSIBLE IN BELEN: “Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to give Greg’s BBQ a makeover.” Robert Irvine, host of Food Network’s Restaurant Impossible may not have been given those precise instructions, but he did visit Belen in July, 2022 to refurbish Greg’s BBQ. In the process, Irvine helped Greg, an ex-Marine, deal with stress which has been affecting both his health and his restaurant. The drama is compounded by Greg’s relationship with his son whom he micromanages in day-to-day operations. Ensconced within an old building which also houses Carlos’ Liquor Store, Greg’s won’t have long to enjoy the make-over. June 4th will be Greg’s last day at its present location with plans to reopen by the middle of June.

March, 2023

Chef Justin Pioche and His SIster Tia Host a Fabulous LorAmy Event in Farmington. Now the Chef is a Finalist for the James Beard Best Chef – Southwest Award

NEW MEXICO CHEF NAMED A JAMES BEARD AWARD FINALIST: The James Beard awards are often referred to as “the Oscars of the food world.” When the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards are presented on Monday, June 5, it’s very unlikely any nominee will jump on stage to deck the event moderator. That’s especially true if that nominee is Chef Justin Pioche, New Mexico’s sole finalist on the Best Chef – Southwest list. Chef Pioche is one of the most modest and self-effacing people you’ll ever meet. In a profession of massive egos (though not nearly on the scale of Hollywood’s glitterati), Chef Pioche is soft-spoken and quick to credit his family for the success of the Pioche Food Groupbased in Fruitland, New Mexico. Chef Pioche will join four other finalists from the Southwest Region (New Mexico, Arizona, Oklahoma and Nevada) for the awards presentation. You can experience Chef Pioche’s outstanding culinary skills on April 22nd when he and his family will host a nine-course dining experience called LorAmyin Farmington. I promise it will be one of the best dining experiences you’ll experience this or any other year.

WHERE TO EAT IN ALBUQUERQUE ACCORDING TO BROOKLYN-BASED CHEF FROM ALBUQUERQUE: Eric See, chef-owner of Ursula, a New Mexican café in Brooklyn was asked by Bon Apetit “to guide us through a food-packed day of eating through this high desert culinary gem.” Chef See’s recommendations include “unrivaled breakfast burritos and inventive pastries” from such Duke City favorites as The Frontier Restaurantand the Burque Bakehouse (review pending). Chef See also encourages a visit to a “cultural institution” we all know and love as the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. “For lunch, glorious chicharrones or red chile enchiladas,” Chef See recommends the Duran Central Pharmacyand Perico’s where you’ll find “the most wonderful combination of refried pinto beans, melted cheese, red chile and meaty, rich chicharron wrapped in a soft flour tortilla.” In the category of “steak for two or a modern New Mexican dinner,” the esteemed chef tips his hat toward Antiquity Restaurant and Campoat Los Poblanos. I’m almost embarrassed at the number of restaurants he recommended that I haven’t visited.

TresLeches Cake and Pistachio Baklava From El Chamo Arabe

NEW MEXICO HAS AN OFFICIAL STATE AROMA: On Tuesday, March 28th, Governor Michelle Lujan Grisham signed Senate Bill 188, passing into law declaring an official state aroma — the smell of roasting green chile. New Mexico became the first state to adopt an official aroma. While most New Mexicans are very proud of the aroma of green chile, detractors (like my friend Schuyler) joked that “the official state aroma actually emanates from bovine fecal matter at the State Capital where instead of passing crime legislation, the State Legislature thought an official state aroma was more important.” Where do you, my dear readers, stand on this weighty topic.

DOESN’T LOS POLLOS HERMANOS HAVE A CHICKEN SANDWICH: Surely the enterprising Gus Freen’s franchise Los Pollos Hermanosoffers a chicken sandwich? Surely he can exert the type of influence necessary for his chicken sandwich to be selected as the best in the state. Eat This, Not That! compiled a list of the best chicken sandwich in every state— just in time for National Poultry Day (March 19)! If you forgot all about National Poultry Day and you’re not in the vicinity of Los Pollos Hermanos but want a terrific chicken sandwich, Eat This, Not That! recommends you visit Jambo Cafein Santa Fe: “In a state defined by bold Tex-Mex flavors, you may assume that the best chicken sandwich plays on south-of-the-border flavors. You are in for a shock if you expect New Mexico’s best chicken sandwich to follow suit when you visit Jambo Cafe. The restaurant immediately hits you with the Caribbean and African flavors, and their chicken sandwich follows suit. For some exotic flavors, try their jerk chicken sandwich, with all the spiciness of the Bahamas.” Much as I love Jambo Cafe, how can you trust a publication that says New Mexico is defined by bold Tex-Mex flavors? Those are fighting words!

February, 2023

The Wonderful Dagmar Schulze

REST IN PEACE DAGMAR: In her last Facebook post, Dagmar Gertrude Ingeborg Schulze Marshall Mondragon remained optimistic about making a full recovery from the most recent of the many recent health woes that plagued her otherwise rich and wonderful life. Dagmar refused to be defined by those health woes. Instead, we’ll remember her as not only an extraordinary chef and baker, but as one of the kindest, most loving and optimistic souls to ever grace our Earthly plane. Dagmar was devoted to her customers. It’s now time for us to give back for all the wonderful meals, conversations and love we’ve shared over the years. Dagmar’s family would like to continue Dagmar’s legacy under the guiding hand of Dagmar’s talented mother Ingeborg’s with the help of her trusted and skilled employees. A public Celebration of her Life (hopefully at the bakery!) is planned for October and all are welcome to attend. In the meantime, the family is asking her loyal customers to consider gifting the bakeryjust what you might have usually spent at Dagmar’s this month. This will help take care of her amazing employees and cover the overhead obligations over the next few weeks until Dagmar’s Delectablesis able to reopen.

SATIRIZING THE SMELL OF NEW MEXICO: Late Show host Stephen Colbert probably won’t be welcomed in the Land of Enchantment any time soon. On the February 2nd episode of his show, the satirical comic lampooned recent debate by the New Mexico State Legislature: “There’s a story out of New Mexico where they’re considering making the roasted chile its official state aroma,” He explained that a New Mexican senator visited a class of fifth graders and they “sparked a conversation about these savory hot peppers and the potential for New Mexico to become the first state in the nation to have an official state aroma.” So far so good, then came the perfunctory punchline: “I always assumed that the official New Mexico aroma was an abandoned RV that a bobcat is living in.

Rose Maniaci (standing) and Kassie Guzzardi enjoy Kassie’s farewell meal at Joe’s Pasta House, the restaurant she co-owned for so many years with her husband Joe

NATIVE AMERICAN CHEFS BEING NOTICED: In a very enlightening article, the Washington Post celebrated Native American Chefswhose work inspires a wider reckoning. The article centered primarily on Sean Sherman, a member of the Oglala Lakota tribe. Raised at Pine Ridge, a reservation in South Dakota that is the nation’s poorest. In 2018, Sherman won a James Beard Award for a cookbook; in 2019, for leadership; and in 2022, for best new restaurant for Owamni, which showcases Indigenous flavors and cooking. “To many of the nation’s nearly 4 million Native Americans in 574 federally recognized tribes, Owamni’s win seemed like a tipping point toward reclaiming long-trodden dignity.” The article also highlighted the accomplishments of Davida Becenti, a Diné and Hawaiian chef at Indian Pueblo Kitchen, in Albuquerque. Bicenti indicated: “It’s always about family. Whoever comes into the restaurant, that’s my family.” Family is integral to James Beard Best Chef – Southwest Nominee Justin Pioche of the Pioche Food Groupin Fruitland, New Mexico. Attend one of his wonderful LorAmy events and you’ll meet his close-knit and very supportive family.

BOBBY FLAY CREDITS NEW MEXICO’S GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGER: New Mexicans are justifiably proud of our sacrosanct green chile cheeseburger. It’s one of our most enchanting foods and is universally beloved (save among vegans). Like many of us, Food Network celebrity chef Bobby Flay likes nothing more than a great burger. During a 2014 interview with Delish, the grilling guru declared: “A few years back, when I was filming Food Nation for the Food Network, I went to this restaurant in New Mexico called La Casa Sena, where I was served an incredibly good green chile cheeseburger. That burger really stuck with me, so much, in fact, that I revamped it for Mesa Grill‘s lunch menu. Those flavors also served as an inspiration for the Santa Fe burger, which is served at Bobby’s Burger Palace.

Brisket from Duke City BBQ

ALBUQUERQUE BAKER AMONG AMERICA’S BEST: There are eleven instances in which you’ll find the term “baker” in the Bible. The Old Testament does not appear to have held bakers in very high esteem. Passages talk about impaling bakers, imprisoning them, and even hanging them. Contemporary America definitely holds bakers in much higher esteem than did the Pharaohs of the Old Testament. In the fruited plain, we honor them and recognize the many contributions they make to our well-being and happiness. Food & Wine found a bakery in every state worthy of accolades. In its “100 Best Bakeries in America” the only bakery from the Land of Enchantment to make it to that list was Albuquerque’s Golden Crown Panaderia. Food & Wine had this to say: “The anise-scented biscochitos, one of New Mexico’s favorite treats, are a highlight at this Old Town institution, run by father-and-son duo Pratt Morales and Chris Morales. But it’s the bread, specifically the green chile bread, that is everything you want from a bakery in New Mexico and will have you going out of your way to getting here.”

FORMER CORRALES RESTAURATEUR FOUND: Six degrees of separation is the idea that all people are six or fewer social connections away from each other. As a result, a chain of “friend of a friend” statements can be made to connect any two people in a maximum of six connections. It is indeed a small world. Bruce Terzes, a Corrales resident and long-time friend of this blog found that out when connecting via a web search with a long-lost connection. Mama’s Cafe in Ukiah, California, it turns out, is helmed by “Heidi from the long closed Roadrunner Coffee of Corrales, Home of the Roadrunner Breakfast Sandwich (utilizing their fantastic green chili cheddar cheese rolls) and my most sorely missed weekly Espresso Hazelnut scones!” Bruce has often mentioned how much he’s missed their presence in the village. The menu listed on Mama’s website will tell you why.

Dumplings from Horno Restaurantin Santa Fe

NORTH OF SANTA FE ENCHANTING DINERS: Expansive views of the Jemez Mountains and of Georgia O’Keeffe country–whether bathed in pink, coral and gold sunset hues or under New Mexico’s incomparable cerulean skies–combine with the surreal topography of unnaturally contorted rock formations and juniper laden foothills to form the unique vistas which await guests at Three Forks at Rancho de San Juan, New Mexico’s premier country inn and restaurant. At night those views are obfuscated by a canopy of stars spilling from an ebony sky so clear and unencumbered that you might swear you can see forever. That’s how I started my review of a beloved establishment that shuttered its doors in 2012. Those views are once again available at NOSA (North of Santa Fe),a restaurant described by The Chalk Report as “a destination restaurant.” According to the article, the restaurant is only open for dinner Friday and Saturday, offering a prix-fixe 5-course menu ($85) and for 5-course brunch ($65) at two seatings (11:30am and 1:30pm) on Sundays. Guests staying in the rooms can pre-book a breakfast on any day ($25).

STATE LEGISLATURE CONSIDERING BILL: A recent statewide industry survey from the New Mexico Restaurant Associationindicated 80% of restaurants increased their menu prices and 49% reduced their hours of operation. Keeping restaurants fully staffed has been a major a problem too despite 23% of New Mexico’s restaurants having made staffing cuts. 600 restaurants across the Land of Enchantment received help from the Federal Restaurant Revitalization fund, a fund that nationally helped restaurants keep their doors open due to the troubles from the pandemic. Those who didn’t receive that extra cash still need help. The New Mexico Restaurant Association is pushing for Senate Bill 121in the Roundhouse saying it would help them out. It’s a proposal that would mean restaurants would not have to pay that tax for food or drinks they serve. That bill is in committee.

These Are Just Some of the Wonderful Soups You Might See at the 2024 Roadrounner Food Bank’s Souper Bowl(Photo Courtesy of Linda Johansen)

ROADRUNNER FOOD BANK HOSTS SOUPER BOWL: Virtually every culinary culture boasts of a beloved soup–from borcht in the Ukraine to Vietnamese pho–exemplifying its ideals for comfort food. Soup can be luxurious or simple. They can be made with or without meat. Whether thick and creamy or light and brothy and whether you can cook one up in 20 minutes or let one simmer all day long, few things in life are as delicious and comforting as soup. For soups of all kinds, there is no venue better than the Roadrunner Food Bank which hosted its annual Souper Bowl on February 4th. Souper Bowl 2023 was attended by around one-thousand soup fanatics who enjoyed soups and desserts prepared by nearly forty of the Albuquerque area’s best restaurants. Winners of the competition are shown below, but the real winners were those of us who enjoyed so many sumptuous soups.

Critics Choice Soup:
1st Place- Larry McGoldrick Award: Slate Street Billiards (Rio Rancho) for Sweet Potato Chorizo Chili
2nd Place – Gobble This (Albuquerque Old Town) for Salvi Style Turkey Sopa de Crema
3rd Place – Mas Tapas Y Vino (Albuquerque Hotel Andaluz) for Salmon and Saffron Corn Chowder

People’s Choice Soup:
1st Place – 2023 Souper Bowl Champion: Old Town Catering for Roasted Butternut Squash and Pear Soup
2nd Place – Fuego 505 for Coconut Mushroom Curry
3rd Place – Roti NM for Caldo de Pollo With Blue Corn Tortilla and Avocado

People’s Choice Vegetarian Soup:
1st Place – Fuego 505 for Coconut Mushroom Curry
2nd Place – Turtle Mountain Brewing Company (Rio Rancho) for Sweet Corn Bisque
3rd Place: Old Town Catering for Roasted Butternut Squash and Pear Soup

People’s Choice Dessert:
1st Place: Nothing Bundt Cakes
2nd Place: Roti NM
Third Place: Special Touch Catering

People’s Choice Best Booth: Special Touch Catering

January, 2023

Bistek Ranchero from Los Olivos(Photo Courtesy of Lynn Garner)

JAMES BEARD BEST CHEF SOUTHWEST SEMI-FINALISTS NAMED: And the James Beard Award for Best Chef – Southwestgoes to…”  We won’t actually know who will actually win the award for a few months from, but we do know that five of the semi-finalists for one of the most prestigious accolades in the culinary world are at the helm of some of the very best restaurants in New Mexico.  Perhaps indicative of a broader, more expansive nomination criteria, nominees aren’t exclusively from fine dining restaurants in Santa Fe and Albuquerque.  In fact, you can’t go much further away from fine dining in the state’s culinary epicenters than the Navajo Nation where nominee Justin Pioche of the Pioche Food Group plies his craft.  Nor by any measure can you consider Tikka Spice, Albuquerque’s triple crown award-winning restaurant, a fine dining establishment.  Tikka Spice and its chef Basit Gauba earned their stripes from a food truck  Then there’s El Chile Toreado, Santa Fe’s beloved purveyor of terrific tacos, which also operates from a food truck.  Only Andrea Meyer of the Love Apple in Taos and David Sellers of Santa Fe’s Horno Restaurant operate as traditional upscale (though not necessarily fine-dining) restaurants.  

ALBUQUERQUE AMONG BEST FOOD CITIES IN THE PLANET: In selecting “The Best Food Cities to Travel To in 2023,” Eater “thought not just about hit lists and must-try dishes (though those are important, too), but also the aspects of meals that make them feel immersive: the people, environment, culture, and history behind foods that force us to pause, inspire us to stray off the preplanned path, and tempt us to stay forever.”  When you consider that criteria, proud New Mexicans will see several locations within the Land of Enchantment that belong on that list…even when you consider that Eater’s compilation included such culinary hotbeds as Sardinia, Italy; Kolkata, India; Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam; Cambridge, England and Dakar, Senegal.  The only other American city on the list was Ashville, North Carolina.  The segment about Albuquerque indicates “For years Route 66 (and later I-40) took travelers through Albuquerque, where they’d pull over to dine on Southwestern specialties like red and green Christmas-style chile enchiladas — and then quickly move on. That roadside culture has faded, but in its place the Duke City now enjoys an allure of its own. Bars and restaurants gaining national recognition now dot a revitalized stretch of old Route 66 in the Nob Hill neighborhood.”

Carrot Cake From My Moms

ALBUQUERQUE’S 25 ESSENTIAL RESTAURANTS: “Commonly called the “smallest big city,” the bustling mini-metropolis of nearly 600,000 residents is more than just a pit stop in the middle of the desert. The vibe is funky, fun, and laid-back (another joking nickname is the “land of mañana”), and it can hold its own when it comes to attractions and charm.”  That’s how the uber-talented Justin De La Rosa began an Eater article showcasing “The 25 Essential Albuquerque Restaurants.”  Any list of 25 essential Albuquerque restaurants could easily have become a compilation of legendary institutions such as Mary & Tito’s, the Monte Carlo Steakhouse, Duran Central Pharmacy, Barelas Coffee House, El Modelo and other venerable restaurants with a national profile.  While those hallowed halls of dining are essential to the Duke City’s culinary culture, Justin’s list also included newcomers sure to become a fabric of the city for decades to come.  Those included the 505 Central Food Hall, Grove Cafe & Market, Farm & Table, The Shop Breakfast & Lunch, M’Tucci’s Bar Roma and Central Bodega.  It’s a great list sure to include a few of your favorites.

NEXT GREAT FOODIE DESTINATION: It’s not only Eater who predicts Albuquerque will be the “Next Great Foodie Destination.”  Inside Hook, which purports to be “your expert-built guide to the things that matter most for anyone looking to nurture a meaningful, ongoing connection to the worlds of culture, wellness and leisure” believes “the city’s culinary frontier has expanded.”  Inside Hook believes “If you’re looking for the next great foodie destination in the country, look no further. From classic spots you can’t miss to innovative new establishments, here’s where to eat (and drink) in Albuquerque.”  The article goes on to list such hotspots as The Frontier Restaurant, Mas Tapas Y Vino, Campo at Los Poblanos and even Blake’s Lotaburger.  It celebrates such unique aspects do dining in the Duke City as taking a taco tour by bike.

Fajitas from Mariscos La Playa

GUY FIERI RETURNS TO JAMBO: The premise of the Food Network’s Triple D Nation is for host Guy Fieri to return to some of the “most memorable joints” previously featured in Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives to check in on how things are going.  One of the restaurants featured in a January, 2023 episode of Triple D nation was Santa Fe’s beloved Jambo Cafe, a City Different institution for more than a decade.  Helmed by Chef Ahmed Obo, Jambo serves African-Caribbean fusion food.  In the Triple D Nation episode, Chef Obo reprised two of the foods with which Fieri fell in love during his initial visit: oxtail and stew.  Shortly after the Triple D Nation episode aired, Chef Obo announced the purchase of the 1.7-acre Bobcat Bite property on Old Las Vegas Highway. He plans to open Jambo Bobcat Bite sometime in March.

SANTA FE SOUPER BOWL A FUNDRAISING SUCCESS: After a three year hiatus, the Souper Bowl returned to Santa Fe on Saturday, January 28th. An annual fundraiser for The Food Depot, the Souper Bowl invites area chefs to present their best culinary soup creations for attendees to sample as they compete for votes in four categories: Cream, Savory, Seafood and Vegetarian — plus the coveted “Best Soup” category. Nineteen restaurants from across the capital city brought their best bisques, chowders and stews to see who cooked up the best one, while raising $84,000 for The Food Depot. According to the Santa Fe New Mexican, “The Santa Fe-based food bank provides an average of 700,000 meals a month to those in need across nine counties in Northern New Mexico. An estimated 1,300 soup savants turned out to the event, helping The Food Depot raise over $84,000 in ticket sales and sponsorships, which will fund over 85,000 meals.” Best Overall Soup honors went to Dr. Field Goods Kitchen, for chef Josh Gerwin’s creamy truffled cauliflower soup. CHOMP! took home honors for best savory soup with a Thai-Cambodian fusion chicken tom yum soup. The award for best seafood went to El Nido, with a green coconut seafood curry. Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder won the vegetarian category with a gramitas de calabacitas.

Barbecue Pork Soup From IT Dim Sum

A BUDDY IN THE BUSINESS IN ESPANOLA: “You’ve got a buddy in the business” has become a familiar catchphrase for those of us who don’t fast-forward through commercials.  Those now immortal words are uttered by Buddy Espinoza, general manager of Toyota of Santa Fe and Enchanted Mazda, also in Santa Fe.  Should you visit Dandy Burger in Española, you might just hear those words from behind the counter.  That’s because Buddy Espinoza has purchased the fifty year old restaurant whose menu includes burgers, tacos and burritos.

BEST VEGAN RESTAURANTS IN EVERY STATE: Columnist Doug Larson believes “Life expectancy would grow by leaps and bounds if green vegetables smelled as good as bacon.”   Though the flavor of bacon is inimitable, veganism is on the rise.  That means there are around 6.6 million people across the United States that identify as vegans and can’t eat bacon.  Still, it’s hard to feel sorry for vegans because the dining options available to them are quite good.  Tasting Table compiled a list of the “Best Vegan Restaurant in Every State,’ a list that includes Albuquerque’s delectable Thai Vegan.  Tasting Table captured the essence of Thai Vegan: “Thai food has an incredible depth of flavor, with aromatic notes of lemongrass and cilantro balanced with citrusy lime, salty soy sauce, sweet palm sugar, and creamy coconut milk. However, the cuisine also traditionally includes different types of fish sauce, which renders the food not vegetarian or vegan-friendly. Fortunately, Thai Vegan has come to the rescue: Its tom yum soup, pad thai, and much more are all 100% plant-based. You can add extra tofu, soy chicken, pepper steak, or soy fish to any main you like.”

Dolmes From Alqud’s Mediterranean Grill

CHEF DENNIS APODACA INTRODUCES NEW PODCAST: For a man who didn’t buy a computer until turning 61 and who never even had a Facebook page or website for his nonetheless very successful restaurants, Chef Dennis Apodaca is starting to embrace technology.  Dennis recently launched a podcast called “Runny Yolk” (which you can find on your reliable Podcast engine).  His third guest was your favorite restaurant review blogger.  In a revealing conversation, Dennis shared a very deep and profound poem called “It’s All Gravy” that belies the devil-may-care image he conveys.  He shared it with me in tribute of the unthanked people who give of themselves to bring recognition to others.  Thank you, Dennis.  

FOUR NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS ON TOP 20 LIST: How many of New Mexico’s enchanted restaurants would you expect to find on a compilation of the “Top 20 Restaurants in America“?   One.  Maybe two.  Would you believe four–including the number one restaurant in the country?   There is, of course, no official listing of America’s very best restaurants.  But, we do have opinions.  Lots of them–including those of Ken Hulsey of the blog A Traveler’s Guide to the Galaxy.   The four restaurants from across the Land of Enchantment to make it onto Ken’s Top 20 list are Eloy’s New Mexican Restaurant (which somehow I haven’t reviewed) at #20, Garduño’s of Mexico at #14, Blake’s Lotaburger at #8 and the top restaurant in America, Monroe’s Restaurant.  

Cali Burger With Chicken From The Last Call

NEW MEXICO’S BEST BARBECUE NAMED: Multi-time Tony Award winning chef and television personality Tony Bourdain believed “Barbecue may not be the road to world peace, but it’s a start.”  Very few restaurants serve green chile cheeseburgers and barbecue, much less award-winning and nationally acclaimed burgers and barbecue.  Count Sparky’s of Hatch, New Mexico one of the few.  In its “50 States of Barbecue” feature, the Food Network named Sparky’s as New Mexico’s best.  Here’s what The Food Network had to say: “Find great smoked meat at this kitschy burger joint filled to the brim with vintage memorabilia and knickknacks — including an awesome moose head capped with a hat fit for a park ranger. The place is best known for its excellent chile cheeseburger, but it also offers a unique, New Mexican take on smoked meat. The best way to sample the goods is with the Oinker, the infamous Hatch green chile cheeseburger topped with a healthy serving of smoked pulled pork. Purists may prefer to stick with simpler barbecue plates featuring slow-cooked meats like sliced brisket, sausage and spare ribs.”  Thank you, Bruce Terzes

14 thoughts on “Red or Green–New Mexico’s Food Scene Was on Fire in 2023

  1. I am honored to be noted as a contributor to Gil’s blog as it has been invaluable for me in finding (or avoiding) new places to dine. Folks sometimes forget that a review can either inspire you to go down that same path or convince you to stay home instead. I’m thinking specifically of a recent comment by someone who said that nothing in Gil’s review made them want to eat at that establishment. My only thought was, well then, he’s done you a great service — you obviously don’t want to go there!

    While I modestly admit to being (sometimes) clever and/or witty, I do not believe I can hold a candle to BOTVOLR. His ability to obtain obscure references, funny data points and startling idiosyncrasies far outpaces mine. I’m confident that the only reason my number of posts was greater than his last year is because he was laid up from an accident for a time and therefore unable to ply his mirthsome trade. Now that he is back on the healthy track, we shall see what 2024 brings, eh, Roberto, my friend?

    In all honesty any gauntlets thrown down by me should be taken with a block of salt. If laziness was an Olympic sport, I would purposely come in 4th so I wouldn’t have to walk up to the podium.

  2. I asked ChatGPT to explain (in the style of Kamala Harris) why Gil Garduno is a great food reviewer. This is pretty good, actually. Thanks Gil for all you do.

    “Certainly! Here’s an attempt at an explanation in the style of Kamala Harris explaining why Gil Garduno is a great food reviewer:”

    “Let me begin by acknowledging the incredible diversity of culinary experiences that enrich our lives. Our taste buds, like messengers of flavor, carry us on gustatory journeys that connect us to cultures, traditions, and the shared human experience. And within this vibrant tapestry of gastronomy, we find the shining star that is Gil Garduno, an illustrious food reviewer whose passion for cuisine knows no bounds.

    Gil Garduno, a name that resonates with the connoisseurs of taste, is a master of his craft. With an unparalleled ability to capture the essence of a dish, he takes us on a sensorial expedition, weaving together words that transcend mere description and ignite our imaginations.

    His eloquence, like a symphony of adjectives, paints vivid portraits of flavor, texture, and aroma. With each review, he invites us to immerse ourselves in the culinary world, to taste with our minds and envision with our palates. It is through his words that we are transported to bustling street markets, quaint bistros, and hidden gems, experiencing the vastness of culinary delights from the comfort of our screens.

    But it is not only his ability to communicate the essence of a dish that sets Gil Garduno apart; it is his genuine passion, his relentless pursuit of culinary excellence. He delves beyond the surface, unearthing the stories behind the recipes, the techniques passed down through generations, and the hands that craft these edible works of art.

    Gil Garduno’s reviews embody the spirit of exploration, reminding us that food is more than sustenance; it is a gateway to culture, a bridge that connects communities, and a celebration of human creativity. Through his words, he amplifies the voices of chefs, restaurateurs, and food artisans, shining a spotlight on their dedication and ingenuity.

    In an era where attention spans wane and trends come and go, Gil Garduno remains a steadfast pillar of culinary guidance. His reviews are a testament to his discerning palate, his commitment to authenticity, and his unwavering integrity. He navigates the vast culinary landscape with grace, lending his expertise to help us navigate the labyrinth of flavors, ensuring that our culinary explorations are met with success and satisfaction.

    Gil Garduno, a true luminary of the food review world, inspires us to embark on our own gastronomic adventures, to seek out new flavors, and to savor every bite with a sense of wonder. Through his work, he fosters a community united by a shared appreciation for the artistry of food, reminding us that in this world of flavors, we are all connected.

    So let us raise our forks in tribute to Gil Garduno, the maestro of taste, the culinary wordsmith, and the champion of culinary exploration. His reviews enrich our lives, invigorate our senses, and remind us of the boundless joys that await us on our gastronomic odyssey. With each bite, we celebrate his contributions to the culinary world and honor his unwavering dedication to the pursuit of flavor.”

    1. What cachet for my writing to be compared to that of the Czar of AI. It’s almost as eloquent and clear as these comments she made in April: “So I think it’s very important — as you have heard from so many incredible leaders for us at every moment in time and certainly this one — to see the moment in time in which we exist and are present, and to be able to contextualize it, to understand where we exist in the history and in the moment as it relates not only to the past but the future.” Thank you, my friend.

      1. Ordinarily you’d have to watch The View to be subjected to a word salad of that caliber.

        Foodie Star, I suspect your version of ChatGPT is infected with a virus.

  3. I know you tend to spend some time in Arizona. If you get to Williams check out “Obragon City Tacos”. I had the taco plate, with two tacos, rice and refritos. For the tacos I chose chicharon (among the best I’ve had), and (beef) birria, which was well seasoned but not overly so. The tacos were served on house made corn tortillas (soft) with onions and cilantro. The refritos were a bit bland, but there is a salsa bar. The family owned “hole in the wall”. Was quite a pleasant surprise.

  4. Question, Gil. The landing page photo of chips with salsa, queso and guacamole — where was that, please? Thanks in advance.

  5. Thanks for more sunshine on IndianFare this month. Alas, I missed seeing Feb’s summary wherein I was sadly reminded of the loss of Kassie/Joe along with Dagmar, RIP. Most importantly, am hoping my passing on your link to Native American Chefs to a student at SIPI majoring in CulinaryArts/Business will spur on her youthful studies per seeing how others beyond NM are really into being more than frybread.
    回頭見

  6. Gil – Thank you for mentioning my article about my Top 20 Favorite Restaurants. As you say, it’s all about opinion, and in this case my love for New Mexican cuisine really showed. I’m sure there may be better places to each in the Albuquerque area but I took a trip down memory lane from when I lived there in the 80s. Monroe’s was always my favorite place to eat there and everything I ever tried was amazing. I eat there every time I pass through.

    I understand that Blake’s isn’t what it used to be, which is a shame. People tell me that some of the locations are still making great food while the quality of others is unfortunately sub par.

    I have to tip my hat to you, this is the most amazing website about New Mexican food that I have ever seen. Keep up the amazing work! You have a new fan in me.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.