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Arc'teryx

What Arc'teryx Jacket Should I Buy? A Guide to The Dead Bird.

An expert breakdown of every model worth considering, based on what it is you want.

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Buying a jacket feels like it requires a science degree these days. Yes, it's difficult. But, it's because Arc'teryx jackets are made for the real life outdoors. Before kids on TikTok wore shells in the shower and Creative Directors were wearing $1,000 jackets to get a faux-milk latte, Arc'teryx was functional, performance-driven gear worn by mountaineers (and graffiti artists). Even though it's made its way into pop culture—and the brand is much better off for it—the lineup is still extremely technical, and it takes some know-how to understand.

That's where we come in, because you're too lazy—or too scared, I don't know—to walk into an REI and ask for help. (No shame, we know as much as they do anyway.) We've done all the backpacking, camping, hiking, tent and tarp-pitching for you. We're rock climbers and mountaineers and annoying losers who love to talk about outdoor gear. We are the nerds you can trust. So if you're sat at home wonder "Which Arc'teryx jacet should I buy?" you've come to the right place. This is every model worth considering, based on what it is you want.

You Want A Simple Rain Shell

Arc'teryx Beta Jacket

Beta Jacket
$400 at Arc'teryx

The most basic of shells that Arc'teryx makes, but it's the one we recommend the most. If you're looking to buy an overbuilt city rain jacket, this is the one. But it's also a top-of-the-line hiking shell because of its light weight and incredible GORE-TEX waterproofing.

When/How to use: Around town or on the trail, as a lightweight rain and wind shell.

You Want A Technical Shell

Beta Beta AR Stormhood Jacket

Beta AR Stormhood Jacket

One step up from the Beta is the Beta AR, which the brand kits out with lighter and more durable GORE-TEX PRO. This is the shell you go to when you graduate to more serious adventures.

Oh, and it's our first look at the acronyms. Arc'teryx loves its acronyms. "AR" is one of the ones you'll see most commonly because it stands for "all round," meaning it's less purpose-driven gear. This is a shell that works for a hike, rock climbing, and even lighter mountaineering or winter sports.

Beyond that, this is the Stormhood version, which has a one-piece hood area. I suggest most people go with the Stormhood, as it gives more complete protection when you're using the hood, and it does a better job of giving you some peripheral vision.

When/How to use: Slightly more serious adventures—On the trail, climbing, or walking to your new gig as a creative consultant.

You Want A Proper Alpine Shell

Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket

Alpha SV Jacket

This is where you get into the shit that's actually made for climbing mountains. The Alpha series is the brand's flagship line for alpine pursuits like rock climbing and mountaineering. That means it's another step up in terms of durability from those Beta models.

The SV means this is a severe weather model, so it's even tougher than the standard Alpha shell, with GORE-TEX PRO throughout the jacket not just in high-wear areas. Unless you're really concerned about pack weight, I'd always recommend the Alpha SV. The extra weight is worth it for the durability. On fast and light trips, you won't notice a few extra ounces. But you'll definitely appreciate the springing for the SV when conditions get real shitty.

When/How to use: Climbing, mountaineering, and as a hardcore rain shell.

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You Want A Ski Shell

Arc'teryx Rush Jacket

Rush Jacket

The Rush is the brand's ski shell, and it's one of the best options on the market. A GORE-TEX PRO build makes it exceptionally tough and lightweight, and touches like the ski skirt and stormhood are nice features to have on your descents.

One note I'll make here is that I'd recommend going for a this shell with a mid layer as a ski setup. Although there is an all-in-one Insulated Rush Jacket, take a note from the pros and just layer. There's nothing worse than being hot on the mountain and not being able to shed excess insulation.

When/How to use: As a ski shell on top of a wool or synthetic mid layer.

You Want a Really Warm Mid Layer

Arc'teryx Atom Jacket

Atom Jacket

Now let's talk layers! For maximum heat, you want a synthetic mid layer. I'd suggest no hood, because unless it's actually frigid, you're just adding more fabric. Plus, going shell-hood-up-mid-layer-hood-down is always a weird feeling.

The only downside to the Atom Jacket is that it works too well. If temps aren't getting above freezing, you'll be glad you have it. But if it's getting warm during the day, or you're heating up on your climb, you'll be unzipping pretty soon.

When/How to use: Under a shell as a super warm mid layer, or a super light standalone jacket in town.

You Want a Versatile Mid Layer

Arc'teryx Kyanite Jacket

Kyanite Jacket

For those trips where the Atom is too much, go for a fleece mid layer. The Kyanite is the best Arc'teryx has, because it's got a little bit of stretch build in. It keeps you nice and warm, but it moves with the body like a base layer (that is, extremely comfortably).

And when you're starting to sweat, fleece is just a bit less heat-trapping than synthetic insulation. It offers you versatility—perfect for those milder trips, or strenuous winter sports like skiing and snowboarding.

When/How to use: Best as an insulating layer for snow sports. Also works as a lightweight jacket for temps around 60°F

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You Want Ultimate Warmth

Arc'teryx Cerium Hoody

Cerium Hoody

Down mid layers are a bit funny. They are, without question, the best when it comes to warmth to weight ratio. But high fill down—like the Cerium's 850 fill—is often too much warmth for when you're active. Put this on for a hike and you'll be sweating after a few minutes.

So what's the ideal use for a down jacket like this? Camp. If you have to overnight on a mountain, down is your friend. If you're doing a pre-dawn summit push, this is your mid layer. If you're on a ski trip and a crazy cold front blew in, this is your lodge jacket.

Of course, you need to understand the limitations of down. 1) It's not great for blocking wind. In the city, it might be OK as a standalone layer, but its main use is as an insulating mid layer. 2) It cannot get wet. If it does, it loses it's fluff and almost all of its insulating capabilities. Plus, it gets a wet dog type of smell. If there's a chance of rain, always have a shell.

When/How to use: As an insulating layer around camp, or as a super warm standalone jacket on cold, dry days. Do not let it get wet.

A Beefier, Standalone Down Jacket

Arc'teryx Thorium

Thorium

If the Cerium is a little too specific for your needs, Arc'teryx has the Thorium. The down is less dense—750-fill—but there is a lot more of it. That makes the Thorium warmer and a bit heavier. On top of that, it has a more durable proprietary Arato 30 shell. It's nowhere near the 70+ denier toughness of a rain shell, but it's about twice as tough as the fabric on that Cerium.

Also, Arc'teryx gives the shell on the Thorium a light water resistance treatment. That, along with all the other design factors, make this the best standalone down jacket in the lineup. It's got great warmth for cold weather camps, but it works well as a city jacket, even on a drizzly day.

When/How to use: As a seriously warm camp jacket. Or, wear it around town on cold days that range from dry to drizzly. It can take some moisture, but once again, do not let a down jacket get soaked.

You Want a Transitional Jacket

Arc'teryx Squamish Hoody

Squamish Hoody

The Squamish Hoody is one of the most well-loved jackets in the Arc'teryx arsenal, all down to its versatility. It's insanely light. It's decent at blocking wind. It's surprisingly durable.

It's built for weird transitional days and the crazy temperature fluctuations you get while rock climbing or alpine hiking. That also makes it a great city jacket. Wherever you are, toss it in the bag and know you'll be OK if temps drop 10 or 20 degrees throughout the day.

When/How to use: Big day hikes or all-day climbs; when you leave the car at 65°F, reach the summit at at 45°F, or when you're on a windy rock face.

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You Want Streetwear Style With a Technical Build

System_A Moroz Shell Jacket

Moroz Shell Jacket

Now we're in to the Arc'teryx fashion lines. System_A is the newest venture, and one that nails everything cool about the look, with roomy cuts and more fashionable colors. This Moroz shell features a cropped cut that's perfect for the city. Plus, this "Arabica" brown is just fucking beautiful.

Be wary though, it's more of a windbreaker than a rain shell. It'll handle some rain, but don't turn to it in a downpour.

When/How to use: As a streetwear-ready windbreaker.

You Want a City Coat

Veilance Monitor Tech Wool Coat

Monitor Tech Wool Coat

Veilance is the brand's beloved city line. Minimalist in cut and color, the look is sleek and urban. That said, it's more rugged than the System_A stuff. Veilance jackets are built with a lot of the same specs as mainline Arc'teryx gear.

What that gets you is stuff like this Monitor coat. It's warm and totally weatherproof, the one coat you'll wear for the whole of winter.

It's also offered in a non-insulated version, and you can add your own layers underneath.

When/How to use: An in-the-city wind and rain shell. Wear it on those shitty work days when you have to trek out for an oat milk latte.

What to Know Before Buying an Arc'teryx Jacket

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God, there is so much... Here is are the basics:

Outdoor layers: For outdoor clothing, you have three layers—base layers, mid layers, and shells. "Jackets" comprise the whole of mid layers and shells. Mid layers are insulators—fleece, down, or synthetic. Shells are crisp-to-the-touch protection from wind and rain—your GORE-TEX things.

GORE-TEX: Speaking of, what the fuck is GORE-TEX? It's a proprietary membrane that gets added to shells, the industry-standard for wind and waterproofing. On Arc'teryx shells you'll also find versions called GORE-TEX PRO (waterproof, windproof, and extra durable) and GORE-TEX INFINIUM (windproof but only water-resistant).

All those acronyms: Arc'teryx uses a bunch of seemingly annoying abbreviations, but they're actually quite useful. They are as follows

  • AR - All round, versatile, good for a range of lower-stakes activities
  • SV - Severe conditions, the hardest wearing gear the brand makes, for actual mountaineering
  • LT - Lightweight, gear that prioritizes pacakbility, most of the brand's offerings get tagged LT
  • SL - Superlight, beyond LT this one denotes gear that is meant to be extremely packable, ideal for quick-changing climates
  • MX - Mixed Conditions, Softshells made for conditions that range from cold and dry to cool and wet
  • FL (not featured on this list) - Fast and light, jackets for milder temps and less extreme conditions
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