Steps in Building a SCAMP sailboat

Links to all my scamp building pages.

Rigging a SCAMP Sailboat,Part 2, Lazyjacks

WARNING: The following article is a description of how I rigged my SCAMP. There is only incomplete information on the details of SCAMP rigging on the INTERNET and in the manual, and what I am presenting here is what I did. I'm not an expert. I've had my boat out a few times now and I have not found any great problem with the set up I'm using. I'm sure there are lots of improvements possible, but, this is working and seems to be safe. Take it as a place to start and improve what you find lacking. There are many right ways of rigging your SCAMP so be prepared for many arguments. This is offered as a good place to start. Maybe, just maybe, it's perfect and can't be improved on. (I wish!)

As I re-read this page I can see that it is confusing. It's a work in progress and I'll improve on it. I've been sick and have not had a lot of energy to improve my website.

Lazy Jacks

Lazy Jacks are lines that create a sort of a cradle to keep the sail from flopping around while you raise or lower it, and to control the rig when you reef the sail. They are also very useful when you are setting up or putting the rig away.

The boom and yard can get pretty frisky and flail around if you don't have a good way of controlling them in higher winds.

In my set up, there is a clip that separates the 2 legs at the bottom from the lines that goes to the top of the mast. When I am finished sailing I bring the sail down, undo the clip to separate top from bottom part, then use the bottom lines to help wrap around the sail to put it away. It's important to hang on to and secure the top ends to the nylon cleat on the mast. Mine just clip on the cleat.

The halyard needs to be lower than the lazyjack block. All the stuff at the top of the mast is fiddly to set up so they don't get tangled. I had to reposition things a few times to avoid interference.

I started sorting out the lazyjacks on the ground sitting in the shade.

Two lines start at the base of the mast where they are tied to a small nylon cleat, go up to the top of the mast, through a small double block, and come down on each side of the sail to 2 swivel snap hook. The second part of the lazy jack is a continuous line that has 2 loops tied. The snap hook snaps on each side of the sail, snap on to the tied loops.

To keep the lazyjacks positioned on the boom and spread out properly, there are 2 small pad eyes on the side of the boom. The photos don't show these.

I had bought a dozen of these nylon cleats. They are light and strong and cheap. The mast in this position has a solid wood plug that allows me to screw into solid wood. The 2 white lines (which are not tied to the cleat since I was sorting out the length of line I needed) go up to the top of the mast and through a double block, then down again.

Hang on to the ends of the lazyjacks otherwise they will thread out of the blocks and you will have to lower the mast to get them back in position.

The top of the mast is a bit of a rat's nest in this photo. I was checking the proper positioning of the halyard (tan line) and the lazyjacks (white lines).

This is not the final positioning. DON'T do this. I had to raise the lazyjack block higher than the halyard so they don't get tangled.

The double line come up from the base of the mast, they can be seen on the left side of the block. Each piece of the line goes through one side of the double block and go down. One leg goes down the front of the sail, the other goes down the back of the sail.

Each leg of the line has a swivel snap hook. This hook attaches to the knotted loop on the bottom part of the lazyjacks. The part that cradles the boom.

In the first photo taken on land as I sort out my rig, I'm getting ready to raise the sail. At this stage I brought the sail bundle and attached the lazyjack loops, which are attached to the boom, to the lazyjacks mast lines that are hopefully nicely attached to the cleat at the base of the mast. Once each of the 2 lines are attached. I can pull on the mast line and raise the sail bundle to clear the roof of the cuddy.

The second photo shows the sail in the process of coming down. I've released the halyard and I'm slowly lowering the sail into the lazyjacks. The sail tends to fall in folds. Once the sail is down, I can tie it and disconnect the lazyjack loops from the lazlyjack mast lines using the spring clips, and secure the loose lines to the mast cleat. If you don't the lines come out of the block and you need to re thread them once the mast is down. I can then put the sail bundle away. I've been tucking it into the front locker under the cuddy, and fastening the other end to the back.

When it's time to set up the sail, I take it out of the cuddy, immediately untie the lazyjack lines that were wrapped around the sail bundle, and snap them onto the lazyjack mast lines so that the sail and spars are dangling supported by the lazyjacks, then I can attach the halyard, downhaul and other lines. Once I'm ready to hoist the sail, I can loosen the lazyjacks a bit from the line at the mast. I can then tighten the downhaul and my sail is ready to go.

While underway, the lazyjacks are loose and don't support anything.

Setting up the Mainsheet and Traveler

The mainsheet is the line that controls the angle of the sail. It is attached at one end to the boom and at the other end to a line that spans the back of the transom. In this case there is a small traveler in the form of a swivel block.

In my set up I have 5 small blocks controlling the mainsheet. It gives me a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage. The position of the foremost block is just a bit aft of the cuddy. The blocks are tied to the boom. When I'm certain I like the position, I might screw in a more permanent attachment. So far it seems to work just fine.

The block bottom left is attached to the block on the traveler line using a shackle

detail of the line as it goes through the transom cover. I just tied a big knot at each end and left some extra line in case I want to change the length. I might in fact shorten the line.

The hole is lined with a bronze bushing epoxied in place.

The little swivel block rides on the line freely and gets attached to the mainsheet using a shackle. I think this block is not essential and a smooth ring would do as well. Maybe even the shackle alone would do.

On the water the mainsheet and traveler is visible.

Setting up the Centreboard

The centreboard pivots down. The board is weighted. The system has a 3 to 1 mechanical advantage.

The centreboard has a line attached to the top aft of the board (when it's pointing down in the water.) When you pull on this line the centreboard pivots up.

This lines goes through a small hole in the fore end of the centreboard enclosure, which I had lined with a copper tube. The line comes out of the centreboard case and gets turned around using a special turning block. Duckworks has one specifically made for the SCAMP. The line is now running along the centreboard case where it goes through a couple of blocks and gets clamped.

Setting this up is just a matter of fitting the various bits so there is enough play in the line so that the centreboard can be up or down and that you can reach it easily to clamp it.

My block is screwed into the thick wood at the end of the centreboard case. The cam cleat is bolted through the plywood behind the case backed by a small plywood rectangle. I could access it by working through the locker hatch.

I used a racelite turning block, a small fairlead, 3/8 line, a single becket block, a fiddle block, a shackle and an eye, and a camcleat.

I drilled a small hole for the line, at a slight angle so that any water could drain back down. The hole is a bit higher than the top of the centreboard. The racelight turning block is screwed into the bulkhead and through the wood at the front of the centreboard case. I taped the block in position while I figured out where to position the hole and block. There is not a lot of stress on the turning block since the line pushes against it, keeping it in place.

The line come from the turning block on the left (not shown) and gets tied to a fiddle block then trimmed. While you are setting this up leave a bit of extra line just in case!!

The single becket block at the right is attached to an eye which is screwed in to the wood at the aft end of the centreboard case using strong screws. It might have been better to bolt it in place but I did not have long enough strainless bolts. Covid played havoc with stainless fittings supplies in the time I was putting this together. It feels rock solid.

The line is cleated using a cam cleat visible at the top right.

To lower the centreboard, simply release the line from the cleat and gently let the board down. Go gently so it does not bash the front of the case. Cleat it and away you go. I was worried that it would need to be cleated in the down position using another line but It stays down very nicely so no problem with my board.

This is a photo from the Scamp manual showing the recommended system. It's essentially the same set up with different components.

Steps in Building a SCAMP sailboat

Links to all my scamp building pages.

emails: Christine

If you decide to build a boat be careful. These tools can be dangerous. If you don't know how to safely handle something find out.

This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view. I don't claim to be an expert in anything, just someone muddling along.